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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goth Girls S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-To-Be-Bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Description

Salt Lake Slips proves that good things can come in small packages. There are only a handful of routes here, but I'll take this sort of quality over quantity any time.

Immediately to the left, there is a 40' cave area with some wicked sport climbs. Up and to the right are several moderate bolted routes.

Getting There

Salt Lake Slips is about 2.45 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon on the left side.

Enter through the Storm Mountain Picnic Area, cross the bridge, and walk west past the Storm Mountain Amphitheater.

Go up the hill, turn south, and follow the trail (turning southwest) to the top of the gully above the Slips. Descend the gully to the routes.

During very low water periods, you can park on the road opposite the climbs and safely cross the river. However, crossing the river at any other time is extremely dangerous; people have died attempting it. Do not setup Tyrollean traverses to facilitate crossing the creek.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Salt Lake Slips

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Salt Lake Slips »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Mason  
The Slips are a great place to train a new climbing partner, as there are several relatively easy (5.6-5.8) sport routes side by side. There are also a few 5.10 routes around the corner. Nice variations in the climbs, and in a few hours you can do 3 or 4 routes. It is close to the base of BCC, so it's easy to get to after work in the summer.

To avoid crowds it is good to get there by 3 if you are with someone who is climb-shy. The wall is in the shade in the afternoon, and a climber could easily attach a top rope to any of the other routes instead of leading (if they wanted, but who'd do that?). All of the climbs seem to have their ratings because they have a short crux area, and otherwise they feel easier than rated, but are enjoyable anyway. Jun 20, 2003
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
There is no longer parking on the North side of the road. The recent rain storms of last week washed out part of the road/shoulder from Stairs Gulch to the former parking area of the Slips. Jun 14, 2006
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
Whats the deal with access now? Still no tyrolean?

I found the trail hard to follow even knowing where it was supposed to end up. Had some friends go down the wrong drainage and get a bunch of poison ivy. I think there needs to be some Caryn's or something. A good landmark though is the lone tree that looks like a bonsai or an umbrella - walk towards it and keep going it should be the next gully. I thought it was fun instead of going down the deadly scree field switch back thing to go over to the second pitch of whatever and rap down. Going up and out the gully isn't so bad. Jun 5, 2007
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
It comes and goes. Please avoid it if it shows up and tell others not to put them up, it's dangerous and illegal, try to get more people using the path from Storm Mountain. It's a nice little hike. Jun 5, 2007
The approach should be abridged in the present description. ooo's map is the correct way, especially during high water periods.
Volunteers with the SLCA have built a great trail over from Storm Mountain. Use it. Kudos JK! Nov 22, 2007
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
The hike from Storm Mountain Picnic Area is around 15 minutes depending on fast you hike. There are a couple meandering paths through the brush on the ridge, but I think they all lead to the same entrance down some loose flat rocks. The water has been low enough to cross since mid August 2011. Going in you can jump across some rocks. Coming back out the jumps are a little harder, so we just walked through the water. Sep 8, 2011
Billy Smallen
Salt Lake City, UT
Billy Smallen   Salt Lake City, UT
The Zombie Corners are up! Climb anything between Italian Arete and Zombieland--once on the ledge make your way to the far right anchors. From there check out Zombieland's second pitch, Double Tap, and Chalking Dead. All super fun!

During high water these are a fun way to gain the ridge while avoiding the gully on your way out to Storm Mountain! Oct 3, 2012
I found a pair of shoes at the slips yesterday 4/5/15. I would like to get them back to their owner. If they are yours just shoot me a description and I will happily reunite you. Apr 6, 2015
Kirsten Schiel
SLC, UT
Kirsten Schiel   SLC, UT
Sorry not sure if this is the appropriate place to post, If there is a better place please let me know. Just coming back from the slips now, where we got my little brother out for the first time (yay) but went to pack up and my backpack was gone. As usual there were a few parties that came and went like they do at the slips and it may have been snagged by mistake as its a bag many people have, small BD day pack lime green, it might be called a bullet but now I am not entirely sure but if you were at the slips today and realized when you got home that you have an extra pack please contact me! I unfortunately can't afford the luxury of buying all my gear twice so it would be cool to get it back!
Kirsten
801 809 4544

And if you took it on purpose then.. Love it good you wanker. Jul 3, 2015
Jimmy2  
Found pair of climbing shoes in 25July. Message with description and we'll get them back to you. Jul 25, 2015
Goat
Salt Lake City
Goat   Salt Lake City
Do the arete! Super easy climb, but very fun. Routes to the right of it are awesome as well, great little crag. Jun 4, 2016
Climbing in this area very briefly on 11 June when it started to rain, if anyone found my Apple Watch it would be greatly appreciated to see it again....we have this relationship, you know:) I searched my pack and then returned to the area and searched everywhere feasible, but...?

There is no current "Find My Apple Watch" feature as their is with the other devices and it needs close proximity to its paired iPhone to function....probably be of no use to anyone else except that it looks good:)
Kudos and multiple rewards if returned, thanks.... Jun 11, 2016
Kai Madsen
Carlotta
Kai Madsen   Carlotta
Left a pair of old red chili climbing shoes 6/19/16. Message me if you've come upon them
385-239-1369 Jun 19, 2016
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
Some things happen for a reason Kai. Jun 19, 2016
Hi, I found an apple smart watch near the slips this weekend, email me at nelsnichols@gmail.com with the watch band color if you think it might be yours and we'll see if we can reconnect you! Jun 20, 2016
grk10vq    
fourth comment up nels ^^^ Jun 20, 2016
Matthew Williams
Holladay, UT
Matthew Williams   Holladay, UT
A rock a little bigger than a softball came off of High Fructose Corn Syrup last night. It was quite a miracle that it didn't hit anyone seeing as the area was packed with youth groups and large parties.

I've climbed here a bunch and haven't seen much loose rock, but just a heads up that a helmet probably isn't the worst idea especially when there is so many people climbing and clamoring around. Jun 23, 2016
Penny L
Farmington, UT
Penny L   Farmington, UT
Hoping I'm not the only one that got a little lost on my way to the routes...We parked across from the picnic area, since there is a required day fee to park there. We crossed and followed the directions over the bridge and past the amphitheater, but perhaps it was because there were a few people climbing at the amphitheater, we didn't quite know where to go from there.

So, just to clarify the hike, head west past the theater and you will come upon a water line that goes into the rock. Follow the trail to the right at that point, then you'll take a left(west) up the hill, keep heading up and south, and as someone aptly stated, look west and you will see a tree that does look like a bonsai tree about 50 yards away. Head west, then down the steep trail and south.

The hike is pretty cool, once you know you're headed in the right direction. Aug 8, 2016
Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
Penny,
Or you could park on the north side of the rode, walk down to the creek, cross the creek and be at the slips. It's a 3 minute approach and very straight forward, still too long of an approach for this garbage crag though. Aug 8, 2016
I think I left my grey Black Diamond helmet behind at the base of this wall two days ago. If you've found it, please send me a message. Thanks! Apr 19, 2017
Lost la sportive left shoe otakis size 41 message me thanks Jun 3, 2017
Please watch for snakes, we stepped right over a rattlesnake coming down the steps after the talus rock. The wooden steps have rattle snakes under them. Still great climbing though. Jun 4, 2017
I think I left a pair of my Scarpa Helix Men's size 43 climbing shoes at the Slips on the morning of Sat. 5/5/18. Text or call Dave at (801) 300-6636 if you have them or bump into them.
Thanks! May 9, 2018
Guide rope is back on, allows safe walking across the stream. As my visiting friend found out, you cannot tyrolean traverse it hahaha. The rope is directly down the bank from the avalanche alarm pole. May 21, 2018
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
As of 5/31/18 this is no rope across the river. Please do not leave a "guide rope" or tyrolian treverse set up across the river for any amount of time. As is mentioned further up the comments doing so is prohibited by the Forest Service and could pose an access issue.
During high water please use the trail from Storm Mountain picnic area. May 31, 2018

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