Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hoss Garden

First Night at Fight Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Haymaker S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keep it Heavy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Left Hook S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Hook S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steiger Sanction, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Upper Cut S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 6,838 ft
GPS: 40.635, -111.705 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,456 total · 265/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jun 27, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...

Description

A new little spot I found in Big Cottonwood. It is shaped a lot like the Choss Garden but quite a bit steeper. We kind of started calling it the Hoss Garden as a joke but when a friend said I was a Habitual Over Stoker, the name stuck. That said, this crag has a nice spectrum of climbing with two .9's, three .10's and four .12's. Several .12's and harder could be established so if you find a line you're psyched about, let's do it!

Remember, this is Big Cottonwood. Cursed with the 30 foot rule in that you might find 30 feet of super cool climbing... broken up by some funky slab or break.

The faces on this area seem to have really great holds on almost every square foot so choosing where to go was the toughest part. I'm not a very good sport climber but brought in a bunch of friends to help work out the bolting. Some are old school and some new school. Hopefully you'll be patient with this process but if you have super strong opinions about moving bolts or changes, feel free to reach out to me. In the end, its a BCC crag that is kind of grid-bolted. I kind of don't care about that because the climbing obviously links up. Hopefully its not too confusing.

This is a nice hang for adults but the belay ledges aren't great for small kids. Seriously, they'll roll all the way down to the road.

Weather:
In the summer, the easier routes stay in the shade till around 9 but the belay for the .9's is almost always shaded.
The steep face is almost always shady in the summer. Some of the belays get sun from 9-4 but the left side is often shady all day. Evening shade hits around 4 or 5. If you get out of your car and its breezy, its almost always nice at the crag. If its not breezy at the car, it could be hot up there.

Spring and Fall are usually really nice, allowing you sunny belays and climbing during the bulk of the day. Or shade, if you go in the evening.

Winter: The approach slope is sketchy in the winter if its wet at all but the crag is blasted with full sun. Even the steep face gets sun.

Getting There

This is across the road and just downstream from Mineral Basin. Park about between mile 7 and 7.5, just as the road turns a sharp left hand bend. There is a little phone building on the right and you'll park 50-100 yards downhill.

We've struggled about what to do with the approach. I'll attach a photo, but this is a road cut. We intermittently cut steps into the road cut in the summer and if you want to help out, please bring a shovel and/or kick steps to help out. Otherwise, climb the slab downhill of the parking and take the trail the rest of the way. I wish I was as good at trail building as Steiger and Co but I'm not. Any advice or help is appreciated.

8 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Hoss Garden Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Hoss Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Upper Cut
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Left Hook
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Steiger Sanction
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
First Night at Fight Club
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Keep it Heavy
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Cut
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Left Hook
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Steiger Sanction
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
First Night at Fight Club
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Keep it Heavy
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Hoss Garden »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

We had a little trail through the road cut/talus last summer but it mostly collapsed over the winter. The simplest thing to do is climb the little slab in the approach photo.
Strangely, someone bolted a couple of boy-scouty sport lines barely left of the approach slab right by the road. So if you're sketched about sliding down the gravel next to the slab, you could easily rap down from the anchor in the notch where the trail and slab meet. May 30, 2018

More About Hoss Garden

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (10)

All Photos Within Hoss Garden (15)

Most Popular · Newest · Random