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Elevation: 6,838 ft
GPS: 40.63458, -111.70453
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,837 total · 203/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jun 27, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

Description Suggest change

A little spot I found in Big Cottonwood. It is shaped a lot like the Choss Garden but quite a bit steeper. We kind of started calling it the Hoss Garden as a joke but when a friend said I was a Habitual Over Stoker, the name stuck. That said, this crag has a nice spectrum of climbing with two .9's, three .10's and four .12's. Several .12's and harder could be established so if you find a line you're psyched about, let's do it!

Remember, this is Big Cottonwood. Cursed with the 30 foot rule in that you might find 30 feet of super cool climbing... broken up by some funky slab or break.

The faces on this area seem to have really great holds on almost every square foot so choosing where to go was the toughest part. I'm not a very good sport climber but brought in a bunch of friends to help work out the bolting. Some are old school and some new school. Hopefully you'll be patient with this process but if you have super strong opinions about moving bolts or changes, feel free to reach out to me. In the end, its a BCC crag that is kind of grid-bolted. I kind of don't care about that because the climbing obviously links up. Hopefully its not too confusing.

This is a nice hang for adults but the belay ledges aren't great for small kids. Seriously, they'll roll all the way down to the road.

WEATHER:

In the summer, the easier routes stay in the shade till around 9AM but the belay for the .9's is almost always shaded.

The steep face is almost always shady in the summer. Some of the belays get sun from 9-4 but the left side is often shady all day. Evening shade hits around 4 or 5. If you get out of your car and its breezy, its almost always nice at the crag. If its not breezy at the car, it could be hot up there.

Spring and Fall are usually really nice, allowing you sunny belays and climbing during the bulk of the day. Or shade, if you go in the evening.The approach slope is sketchy in the winter if its wet at all but the crag is blasted with full sun. Even the steep face gets sun.

Getting There Suggest change

PARK:
This is across the road and just downstream from Mineral Basin. Park about between mile 7 and 7.5, just as the road turns a sharp left hand bend. There is a little phone building on the right and you'll park 50-100 yards downhill. 

This is BCC, so lock your stuff and be sure you can't see items through the window. We haven't had any incidents yet so knock on wood. You'll be able to see your car but can do nothing about it if someone messes with your stuff.

TRAIL:

You only have to hold your nose for 10 minutes but this trail totally sucks. The crag is only 500' from the road but you'll want to bring good shoes because you'll be treading through loose scree. At one point we had a nice little trail through the road cut at the bottom but then the whole thing came down the next summer. And then a year or two later, the upper part of the trail started washing out. Even Steiger and Co. couldn't really figure out what to do with it. I briefly thought that it would work to hike in from up canyon but that would make you cross a completely sketchy drop-off where the gully leads up to the Boss Garden. Let me know if you have any brilliant ideas. Any advice or help is appreciated.

HIKING UP

For now, climb the slab downhill of the parking. There is a light trail trending up and slightly north, then cuts across a small break of shale. You'll see the crag at the shale and can pick your way through the scree the rest of the way. 

The upper half of the trail used to be more solid but the last couple of years has become more unstable. So please be careful not to knock a rock onto your friends' foot. Hiking poles don't really help because the would get caught up in the scree. 

HIKING DOWN

We usually just pick our way down beside the slab but if you hate that idea, there is an old calderone belay at the top of the slab that you could use to rappel the last bit to the road. It's hard to see in the dark and kind of exposed so spot it on the way up. But seriously, picking your way beside the slab isn't that bad if you go with the flow a bit. 

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hoss Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Upper Cut
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Left Hook
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
The Steiger Sanction
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Keep it Heavy
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Haymaker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Cut
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Left Hook
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Steiger Sanction
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Keep it Heavy
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Haymaker
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hoss Garden »

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