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Routes in Hoss Garden

First Night at Fight Club T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keep it Heavy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Left Hook S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Hook S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steiger Sanction, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Upper Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a


A new little spot I found in Big Cottonwood. It is shaped a lot like the Choss Garden but quite a bit steeper. We kind of started calling it the Hoss Garden as a joke but when a friend said I was a Habitual Over Stoker, the name stuck. That said, this crag has a nice spectrum of climbing with two .9's, three .10's and four .12's. Several .12's and harder could be established so if you find a line you're psyched about, let's do it!

Remember, this is Big Cottonwood. Cursed with the 30 foot rule in that you might find 30 feet of super cool climbing... broken up by some funky slab or break.

The faces on this area seem to have really great holds on almost every square foot so choosing where to go was the toughest part. I'm not a very good sport climber but brought in a bunch of friends to help work out the bolting. Some are old school and some new school. Hopefully you'll be patient with this process but if you have super strong opinions about moving bolts or changes, feel free to reach out to me. In the end, its a BCC crag that is kind of grid-bolted. I kind of don't care about that because the climbing obviously links up. Hopefully its not too confusing.

This is a nice hang for adults but the belay ledges aren't great for small kids. Seriously, they'll roll all the way down to the road.

In the summer, the easier routes stay in the shade till around 9 but the belay for the .9's is almost always shaded.
The steep face is almost always shady in the summer. Some of the belays get sun from 9-4 but the left side is often shady all day. Evening shade hits around 4 or 5. If you get out of your car and its breezy, its almost always nice at the crag. If its not breezy at the car, it could be hot up there.

Spring and Fall are usually really nice, allowing you sunny belays and climbing during the bulk of the day. Or shade, if you go in the evening.

Winter: The approach slope is sketchy in the winter if its wet at all but the crag is blasted with full sun. Even the steep face gets sun.

Getting There

This is across the road and just downstream from Mineral Basin. Park about between mile 7 and 7.5, just as the road turns a sharp left hand bend. There is a little phone building on the right and you'll park 50-100 yards downhill.

We've struggled about what to do with the approach. I'll attach a photo, but this is a road cut. We intermittently cut steps into the road cut in the summer and if you want to help out, please bring a shovel and/or kick steps to help out. Otherwise, climb the slab downhill of the parking and take the trail the rest of the way. I wish I was as good at trail building as Steiger and Co but I'm not. Any advice or help is appreciated.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hoss Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Cut
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Hook
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Hook
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Steiger Sanction
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
I Don't Name Single Pitch R…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Upper Cut
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Right Hook
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Left Hook
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Steiger Sanction
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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