Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Clay W, Kent Wheeler, Drew B and Alex L
Page Views: 576 total · 33/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This is one of my favorites at the crag.

Start on the steep face left of the arete, cross it half way up and finish on the engaging vertical face above.

If you want to feel good about yourself, climb right of the bolt line at the bottom and onsite it (but its really only 11+). If you stay in the bolt line at the bottom, the pump becomes a little more of a factor and makes it .12a. Also, the climbing is way more fun that way.

Location

Start on the right most set of bolts near the arete. Anchor is left of Left Hook.

Protection

8 to 10-ish bolts and chains.

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Best and most appropriate BCC route name to date!! Jul 10, 2017
Nate Layton  
 
Super fun route with a distinct crux in the middle. Take the suggestion about staying in the bolt line. It makes the climb much more sustained and fun. Then feel good about yourself for onsighting the 12a instead of a 11+. Oct 25, 2017
tenesmus
  5.12a
tenesmus  
  5.12a
I figured out why people are calling this .11 and I think it's 12a: If you climb out right to the huge jugs, you get enough rest to take the burn down a little. Moving jug to jug as you approach the crux doesn't really give you that chance.

Doing it this way also makes it feel a lot safer because you aren't so far to the side of the bolts. The climbing out right is less intense but also less protected so pick your poison. Aug 26, 2018