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Routes in Hoss Garden

First Night at Fight Club T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keep it Heavy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Left Hook S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Hook S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steiger Sanction, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Upper Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Anthony Newman, Kent Wheeler, John Steiger, Clay W, etc
Page Views: 177 total, 39/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Is it 10a or 10c? Finding the jugs makes all the difference. Either way the crimps and jugs are high flow. You could stem off the ledge on the upper half and make it easier - but that's way less fun. You know you can climb this grade so just commit to the gigantic jugs on the face, do it the fun way and keep it like a .10- at Momentum.

The ledge in the middle takes a star away but the face above gives one and a half back. The hardest part about bolting this face was deciding which jug line to use. In the end, there is a crimp or jug on almost every square foot of this route.

Location

The goal is to get to the upper face. You can start on the first couple of bolts of "IDNSPR", bringing a hand-sized cam or two to use in the dihedral connecting the faces. If you want a bit of a challenge, you can start on the lower set of bolts on the ramp coming down from the upper staging area. The hidden jugs keep it at 10- but the first time through can feel quite a bit harder.

Protection

8 draws if you stay in the bolt line. If you use the easier alternate start of IDNSPR you'll need a cam or two.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
Bonus knee bar for short people to get to the first bolt.

Getting to the second bolt requires a lot of patience to keep at 10-. If you don't think you have the jug, take your time to "take" and suss it out. Jul 9, 2017