Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA: Tyler Phillips and Clay Watson, on lead, in a crazy spring snow storm. FFA: Many friends through several different iterations, then Clay W.
Page Views: 641 total · 37/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This one got in my head and kept me going for a lot longer than the others. Turns out my .12b project is probably more like .12b/c? Tyler Phillips patiently taught me how to drill a steep line on lead. Holy cow it was spooky. As we worked it, some key holds broke making us move some bolts and change the line quite a bit.

Climb 3 bolts of easy terrain then the super steep crack. Climbing from the bottom to the first of the upper bolts feels around .11b for you tradsters out there. Once you clip the first of the upper bolts, its game on, with cool slopers, pinches and crimps. Save some juice for the last mantle, which is way easier if you're short. This mantle is also way easier when you finally find the jugs. The ones right by your face. On you're like 30th go. I've never had my large ass more over the lip of a mantle and still fallen. Believe me, the fall is safe.

Location

Starts below the big crack about halfway across the face. Belay in the alcove just below the start for the best vantage point. If you do this, you'll need to have the climber clip the second bolt then unclip the first bolt to keep the rope from dragging through a weird little BCC crack thing.

Protection

The crack takes many sizes but taking doubles of thin hands works best. I added the long cable draws to reduce rope drag. We initially used a regular sport draw there, but the rope gripped the rock and made it difficult to give a soft catch. (Jacking my heel and making me super mental till I moved a couple of bolts and added the cables.) The falls are all clean and clear with the current setup - I've taken falls about every place possible on this, lol. If someone eventually decides to switch out these biners, please keep them oriented the way they are for safety.

Photos

tenesmus
  5.12c
tenesmus  
  5.12c
This is my favorite line at this cliff. Its easy to place gear and work. Its a lot like Heisenberg/White Lines in that the steep crack is just a jug rail. Also like Heisenberg/White Lines in that the top half has highly varied, fun movement requiring both power and finesse. Jul 10, 2017