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Routes in Hoss Garden

First Night at Fight Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keep it Heavy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Left Hook S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Hook S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Steiger Sanction, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Upper Cut S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: John Steiger, Kent Wheeler, Clay Watson
Page Views: 225 total · 18/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

"The eighth and final rule: If this is your first night at Fight Club, you have to fight."
Gearing up for this one always puts a lump in my throat. Not that its dangerous: there is gear everywhere. Its just a steep-ass crack system that keeps coming after you till you hit the roof.

Location

Starts in the main staging area just left of the arete. Clip one bolt and traverse the crack moving left to the vertical component. Protect this traverse well. We hope to straighten this out into a direct line soon.

Protection

One qd to start, a couple of long draws for the middle, standard rack from small cams to #3 camalot. I think a single set does the trick but having one or two extra pieces wouldn't hurt. Please be sure to protect yourself well as you start the traverse. This part of the cliff was found to have a little more brittle rock than the rest.

The rope gets super stuck in the crack once you pull the lip so we added a bolt out left. This is purely to keep the rope out of the crack and unless you're a supertradster you really do need to use it.

Photos

tenesmus
  5.12a
tenesmus  
  5.12a
A bird moved into the pod below the crux this year. We're pretty sure its gone now but if you go up there, bring a brush. This is a fun trad line that makes you work through the sizes where its steep. Jul 9, 2017

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