First Night at Fight Club
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Hoss Garden
|First Night at Fight Club T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Keep it Heavy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Left Hook S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Right Hook S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Steiger Sanction, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Upper Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||John Steiger, Kent Wheeler, Clay Watson|
|Page Views:||138 total, 26/month|
|Shared By:||tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Description"The eighth and final rule: If this is your first night at Fight Club, you have to fight."
Gearing up for this one always puts a lump in my throat. Not that its dangerous: there is gear everywhere. Its just a steep-ass crack system that keeps coming after you till you hit the roof.
LocationStarts in the main staging area just left of the arete. Clip one bolt and traverse the crack moving left to the vertical component. Protect this traverse well. We hope to straighten this out into a direct line soon.
ProtectionOne qd to start, a couple of long draws for the middle, standard rack from small cams to #3 camalot. I think a single set does the trick but having one or two extra pieces wouldn't hurt. Please be sure to protect yourself well as you start the traverse. This part of the cliff was found to have a little more brittle rock than the rest.
The rope gets super stuck in the crack once you pull the lip so we added a bolt out left. This is purely to keep the rope out of the crack and unless you're a supertradster you really do need to use it.