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Routes in Hoss Garden

First Night at Fight Club T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keep it Heavy T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Left Hook S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Hook S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steiger Sanction, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Upper Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Anthony Newman, Kent Wheeler, John Steiger, Clay W, etc
Page Views: 199 total, 38/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The best of the 10's at this crag. The upper face climbs like the steep 10's at Momentum: Long moves on huge holds.

Clip two bolts, then a cursed but short section of BCC .4 to the upper face. Once you're on the upper face, stem, pinch, and weave your way around the center set of bolts on this face.

Location

Starts on the upper (left) set of bolts about 6 feet from the top of the ramp connecting the main staging area to the base of IDNSPR.

Protection

8-ish bolts to chains.

Photos

Super fun route! Great holds the whole way up. I'd give it 3 stars. Nov 3, 2017
tenesmus  
 
This climb has the inherent characteristics of BCC: Some fantastic rock broken by an unfortunate ledge. This makes belaying somewhat funky.

You kind of need to start downhill of the first bolt but then you can't see the climber on the upper face. One way to alleviate this has been to have the leader clip the second bolt using a long draw with a locker on the rope, then unclip the first bolt. That allows the belayer to walk uphill and belay nearer the staging area, where you can see the climber on the upper face.

The hardest part of bolting this face was choosing which line to commit to. We eventually decided that since this is a short, squatty BCC face with good climbing, no one probably cares if we grid bolted it. Its been fun to connect the dots on all the little variations. If you needed a place for .10 arcing, you could do at least 10 different variations and never stop doing something new.

I like the body width area just left of the bolts on Upper Cut. Also, merging in from Left Hook near the second to last bolt is super cool, with all kinds of interesting holds. Jul 9, 2017