Avg: 3.4 from 543 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Harold Goodro, Dan Lynch 1953|
|Page Views:||42,433 total · 204/month|
|Shared By:||John J. Glime on Jun 23, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
If you park at the "Remnants of an Ancient Sea" pullout, hike up and angle left toward the wall via a beaten path through the scree field. You are heading for the main arete between the East Face and the North Face. Start the climb on the east side (left side) of the arete. Use care not to send rocks down onto the highway.
Pitch 1: Climb up the clean and crack-laden east face of the main ridge to a wide crack, then the arete itself and a small ledge. The pitch traditionally ends here. ~80'. Belaying here might help with communication and/or rope drag, but isn't really necessary. Follow the right side (north side) of the arete and then the ridge crest until you come to a BIG ledge. ~ another 90,' 5.6.
Pitch 2: Start to the right of the belay on a varnished face (crux) and climb up through cracks staying on the north side of the arete until you reach a feature some call "the cave." It is an obvious ledge to belay from, now you are on the arete again, with better exposure. ~140', 5.7+
Pitch 3: Step out of the right side of the cave out onto the north face and climb upward through a series broken diagonally running cracks. The pitch splits the roof at the top by a step to the right onto an apposing dihedral. Anchor from cracks back from the cliff edge a ways using gear ~140' 5.7
Descent: Hike up slightly and then right (west) where you'll find a great trail that leads down oak riddled the sub-ridge. Just past the parking area - near where the highway bridge crosses the creek, turn east (up canyon) and follow a moderate trail/scramble down through the purple shale layer. Please do not short-cut this descent via the scree slope directly above the parking area as erosion there has reached epic proportions.
This is a great route for the moderate traditional leader.