Mountain Project Logo

Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown (1950's - 60's?)
Page Views: 33,276 total · 187/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Jun 23, 2003 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


424 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

If you park at the "Remnants of an Ancient Sea" pullout, hike up and angle left toward the wall. You are heading for the main arete between the East Face and the North Face. When you reach the arete and where the wall meets the scree. You want to start the climb on the east side (left side) of the arete by a little tree/bush.

Pitch one:Climb up and right to reach the arete, then follow the right side (north side) of the arete up until you come to a BIG ledge. When I climbed this I had a 60 meter rope, so I am not positive that you can reach this ledge with a 50 meter rope. If you aren't going to make it, you can easily stop at a couple of points to break this pitch into 2. Either way, make sure you use long runners to prevent serious rope drag.

Pitch two:(From the Big ledge.)Start to the right of the belay and climb up through cracks staying on the north side of the arete until you reach a feature some call "the cave." It is an obvious ledge to belay from, now you are on the arete again, with better exposure. This pitch is easily reached with a 50 meter rope, it isn't too long, however I don't remember its exact length.

Pitch three:Technically you have the option of climbing up onto the east side (left)of the arete, but that isn't why you are climbing this route. So move to the right from the belay back out onto the north face and climb upward. The climbing finally gets the exposure you were looking for so look around and enjoy. Follow cracks up to the top. Again, a 50 meter rope easily reaches the top.

Descent:Hike up and then right (west) where you will find a great trail that leads down to the shale layer which is above the "Remnants..." parking area. Then down to the pullout.

This route would be three stars if the rock was better on the lower pitch. It is a great route for the moderate traditional leader.

Protection

Standard trad. rack will be fine.

Photos

Dane Hill
Provo, UT
Dane Hill   Provo, UT
left a cam right off the deck of the second pitch. It walked in and we weren’t able to retrieve it. I’d love to get it back if anyone does the route and is able to get it please let me know Nov 24, 2017
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.7+
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.7+
If ranking the climb as a whole I'd say its great. 1st pitch was nothing special, ended up with a ton of rope drag. Second pitch was awesome and belaying from cave was wonderful. Third pitch was money pitch and had a ton of great exposure. May be splitting hairs but it felt 5.7+

Top of first and second pitch had slung rocks for anchors, but had to build an anchor at the top of the final pitch. Walk off to the west. Oct 29, 2017
Matty Coles
Salt Lake City
 
Matty Coles   Salt Lake City
 
Lost one La Sportiva SKWAMA at the pullout parking area where the trail starts up the talus. Just hoping for a bit of luck. Thanks yall. Sep 8, 2017
Brenda Leach
Sandy, Utah
Brenda Leach   Sandy, Utah
LOST: RED TRI-CAM. My red tri-cam was left on the 1st pitch of Outside Corner. It's not the mangled one that's visible from the ground. Rather, it's about 1/2-way up P1 where you move right to get onto the arete. It has yellow tape on it. If you were able to remove it and would like a 6-pack of beer for your efforts, let me know. A PM works. Thanks! Aug 15, 2017
ClimbingNewb
Canyon Country
 
ClimbingNewb   Canyon Country
 
If you climbed this on 4th of July and missing something that was at the base of the climb let me know what? Climbing partner picked it up thinking it was ours. Jul 12, 2017
b Light
Salt Lake City, Utah
b Light   Salt Lake City, Utah
We lost a .75 camalot low on the first pitch yesterday, Sunday June 26. Went back today to retrieve it and it was gone. I would be happy to get it back. There is cold beer in return. Did I mention that nut, two biners and yellow sling that was dropped as well? I wouldn't use those as they were dropped from quite a distance. Jun 26, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
I'll do you a favor. And in return you do me a favour and not use that limey English on here.....cool? Jun 20, 2017
my follower on 6/18/17 forgot to clean (I'm assuming) one of my black diamond OZ draws off the route somewhere, I went back yesterday and re climbed it and didn't see it, I'm assuming the party behind us swooped it. if it was you I would love to get it back, it had very obvious nail polish on the top biner. happy to buy you a beer or something to return the favour. 801-557-8396

cheers,

DBK Jun 20, 2017
apross  
I'm sure they won't care about getting anything in return and are just happy you get your gear back. Your call. Jun 11, 2017
Kyle Rummens
North Salt Lake, UT
 
Kyle Rummens   North Salt Lake, UT
 
Great! Is there anything else they would like? I am under age, but I would love to show my gratitude somehow. I don't know what a good replacement for wine would be haha. Jun 11, 2017
apross  
Kyle, a very nice couple dropped of your cams today at IME.
They did mention they like a good Malbec wine which I will be happy to pass on to them for you. Jun 10, 2017
Kyle Rummens
North Salt Lake, UT
 
Kyle Rummens   North Salt Lake, UT
 
My partner and I got caught in a wind storm yesterday (June 8th, 2017) and we had to bail. I left a #4 BD, black Metolius, and orange? Metolius, a sling, and a locking carabiner mid-way on pitch 3. If someone finds that could you text or call me at (626)-660-4068. Thanks Jun 9, 2017
I seemed to have driven off without my climbing shoes- I am sure they're in the parking area near the base. La Sportiva Katana lace ups in (I think) a 7.5. If anyone notices them, please PM me.
Thanks!!! Jun 1, 2017
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
 
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Teehee... Aug 24, 2016
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Bwaahhaahahahahaha!!! Aug 23, 2016
I'm about 70% sure this is the route I was climbing today, my buddy and I were just messing around in the BCC. Found this route and decided to give it a try, didn't realize it was a multi pitch with no anchors, so I left a red and a purple to bail on. I will be coming back later this week or next to pick them up, please leave them there Aug 23, 2016
Laronicus Lehmanold
Salt Lake, UT
  5.7
Laronicus Lehmanold   Salt Lake, UT
  5.7
Climbed this last week, and I do not understand what the hype is all about. The route was alright, and I am not eager to do it again. Definitely worth doing to test your composure while being exposed. The climb itself is worth doing once, that is all. Two stars. Aug 18, 2016
Ty Falk
Park City, UT
 
Ty Falk   Park City, UT
 
Whoever removed the bolts and plaque did a good job. It took me a minute or two to find holes from where the bolts were. Jul 23, 2016
Stevie Nacho   Utah
What happened on outside corner to necessitate a plaque ? With all due respect to the deceased, this will get removed along with that anchor

Tda Mar 6, 2016
Seth Reelitz
Utah
 
Seth Reelitz   Utah
 
Wasn't too happy to pull the lip and see this eyesore.
Mar 5, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Pics or it didn't happen... Mar 2, 2016
justa beater
sandy utah
justa beater   sandy utah
Climbed this classic yesterday (2/27/16) and I gotta say I sure dont like the fact that the top now has a set of belay bolts. I understand they were put in in memoriam for someone, but the big plaque staring you in the face when you pull over the top along with the bolts detract from the aesthetics of the route. It didn't need a bolt anchor, there are several options up there and it really didn't need the plaque. Call me heartless but you can't just go retrobolt a climb, especially a super classic it's just not right, if the FAs thought it needed bolts they would have put them in. It's not a sport climb. I hope this doesn't become a habit along the wasatch. Might need to sharpen my chisel if so. Feb 28, 2016
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.7+
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.7+
The final pitch is sustained and challenging for a 5.7 - would probably warrant a 4 star rating if it were a stand-alone route. BUT the first 2 pitches are so-so; they both have some really good sections and some tricky moves but there is also a lot of dull, blocky and loose junk. Definitely a worthy objective but I wouldn't call it a true classic... just my (slightly) humble opinion.

Oh, and I didn't find the walk-off to be all that bad. A little brushy to be sure but I've certainly done FAR worse! Jun 17, 2015
KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
Lost a .75, .5, and a #12 BD stopper on this climb last weekend. First time ive ever lost gear. Regardless, it was an awesome climb with easy climbing and good exposure at times!

Quick thoughts:

-Bring lots of slings
-There are fixed slings on top of P1 & P2 for retreat
-Its an awesome climb! Apr 3, 2015
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
 
It is just barely possible to do this in 2 pitches with a 70m. First pitch to the big ledge, second pitch is a rope stretcher to the top. Run it out or use doubles/lots of long slings to manage drag. Oct 15, 2014
justa beater
sandy utah
justa beater   sandy utah
Such a killer route...loved the exposure and the whole climb felt very natural, some moves take a bit of thought but otherwise felt very secure, all the people saying stay right when leaving the cave belay are right, wow what a cool feeling...I punched two pieces in at the lip runnered and equalised then ran it out up the face...so much, almost too much fun!!! I rock a double rack to #4 so I had no trouble with gear at all, if you see it pkace it and I saw it the whole climb pretty much. Jun 9, 2014
madskates
slc
madskates   slc
Awesome route, if you've got someone new to placing gear and wants a longer route this is it. You would be plenty fine with a single rack. Rope drag on the first pitch is terrible so be prepared and bring lots of runners for those cams and nuts! Also the first and second pitch(The Cave) have fixed webbing for anchors. May 20, 2014
Kevin Chuba
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Kevin Chuba   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Take a 50 meter rope and do it in four pitches. Swapping leads and keeping both climbers warm and happy depending on climate. A solid single rack to #3 Camelot, if placing your nuts where needed........
I opted for the 70 meter rope in the shade while placing a double set; to the other side of the rainbow. Be prepared for this route. The Ruckman guide, even states that it has a bit of exposure. A very nice introduction for a climber who wants to learn the term "route finding". If you find an old ass pin, behind a bush, on the last pitch, your grinning:)
WALK OFF to the north west down a very well maintained trail. Don't leave your booty for the pirates. YARRRR! Mar 24, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
A variation for pitch 2 is to walk a few feet left of the belay boulder and go straight up the thin finger crack. Slightly harder than the usual crux of p2, but really fun for the 15 feet until you get back on the corner. Probably about 5.8 or so, protects easily with a couple BD .3s. Good for passing or climbing when someone is already on the route. Oct 24, 2013
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
I feel like this route would be fairly difficult for a new 5.7 trad leader. If 5.7 is your limit, I'd do a few others before committing to this one. It is a phenomenal route, a lot of fun with a few really memorable moves. Really cool line.

conditions: as of March 14th, 2013 there is snow at the top that is melting onto the final section of the last pitch. This made it quite a bit spicier and I really double checked my pro before committing to the wet rocks. Both shoes and hands were wet. Mar 14, 2013
grk10vq    
Eco damage to a talus field?
thats a new one. Sep 4, 2012
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
boulderkeith wrote: It would be great if someone rap bolted the slab behind the remnants of the sea sign. Definitely less eco damage than the foot traffic down the talus and safer too.
It would be great is someone would pave this and start a shuttle service. I saw some people doing the walk off and it looked like it was making them tired. Sep 4, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.7+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.7+
Rap bolting the walk-off? WTF is wrong with people these days...
How about we pave it and start a shuttle service? Sep 4, 2012
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Great route. We did it as 4 pitches to facilitate communication. Each pitch has a little something for you. The last pitch is great. For the descent, look for the larger juniper tree with the obvious foot traffic into the gully. I saw another party downclimb early (looked ok but not great). They surfed a lot of talus. It would be great if someone rap bolted the slab behind the remnants of the sea sign. Definitely less eco damage than the foot traffic down the talus and safer too. Sep 4, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I did this climb again today after first doing it about 8 years ago, and I forgot how good it is. I think it's my favorite moderate multi pitch route in the Cottonwoods. We combined pitches 1 and 2 and then 3 and 4 with a 70, though rope drag was apparently horrendous for the last two pitches. Jun 14, 2012
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.7
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.7
This is a super cool climb! It absolutely deserves the 4 star rating. I will be repeating it.

You should definitely run the first two pitches together. The 2nd pitch is so easy that you'll only need a few pieces of pro. You should have plenty of gear to make it to the large ledge in one shot (with hardly any drag).

The crux is the start of the third pitch, but it only lasts for a few feet, then the rest of the pitch is pretty easy with only one moderate section at the end.

The 4th pitch is the most sustained, but it has plenty of rest positions, and it takes gear pretty easily. There is one slightly "runout" section on the forth pitch, but it isn't too hard. Just make sure you put in a piece before you attack it.

Overall an excellent climb. It does not deserve a PG13 or R rating. Great climb! Not as hard as everyone makes it sound. The crux might be harder than 5.7, but it is right off the huge ledge and it only lasts for 2 moves, then it eases up. Aug 8, 2011
Andy VanHouten
Park City, UT
 
Andy VanHouten   Park City, UT
 
Exciting route...good climbing bottom to top. Pitch 3 is definetely sustained from the start and eases up the farther up you go. Didn't see any lost gear other than an old piton, so bring plenty of pro, especially for the 3rd pitch. Grab a buddy and go do it. May 14, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
excellent climbing, superb belay ledges, great position, ultra-classic! Jun 4, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.7
What a great route! Always fun, whenever I do it! P1 face is fun, P2 cracks are awesome and P3 stays consistent with some sweet face climbing w/o as much gear, but it is solid. Apr 26, 2010
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
Great route, but not quite the classic I was hoping for. Several sections of crappy rock and mediocre pro detract from an otherwise awesome route. Still, a fun outing and pretty exciting. The last pitch was great, and much longer than I was expecting. As with a lot of routes in BCC, I found tricams to be especially useful. Aug 31, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.7
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.7
Wow, classic is all I can say! The last pitch is no doubt airy, but protects well, and is sustained good climbing. Definately do the right variation, as it makes the climb! The double crack stemming was my favorite part... Jul 26, 2009
Rachelle J. Ross
5.9+ PG13
Rachelle J. Ross  
5.9+ PG13
Lots of talk about this climb but it's all well deserved. A classic indeed, one you'll talk about with your friends for weeks after. A note about the walk-off: Make sure you aren't doing it in the dark. It's dangerous with tons of loose rock on the final area of the descent. I slid down on my backside to prevent a fall or ankle injury, only to the demise of one nice pair of Mountain Hardware pants. Still better than an injury... Jul 13, 2009
Alex Headman
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Alex Headman   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The best exposure I've ever had the pleasure of being on. The final pitch proves this climb worthy of its classic rating. The start of the 2nd pitch has some fun moves off the belay ledge. Be cautious of rattle snakes on the walk off. I about stepped on top of one. Aug 21, 2008
Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
 
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
 
This is a really good route for moderate trad leaders or anyone who loves a good day on the rocks. all day shade, the cave belay, and the exposed juggy roof pulling on p3 come together to make a bcc classic. I agree that some kind of stairs or rappel possibility should be installed to help people negotiate the shale band gully at the end of the walk off. that thing is a slip and slide. Aug 2, 2008
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.8
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.8
what a great route with with seriously committing moves. Walk off kinda sucks... really sucks at the end. mind the rattlers.

The erosion we're causing could warrant some trail work there to build steps like the slips or some rap bolts to get down. Jun 29, 2008
oliver
 
oliver  
 
This is one of the best moderates in the BCC area Jul 31, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
meh, the last pitch was good, 1 star for the other two pitches. Kind of the standard BCC broken/ledgy climbing, not great pro. The last pitch is continuous and solid though. I guess with a few exceptions, maybe I'm just not in love with BCC trad climbing, since I've heard a lot of people say good things about this route. Jun 1, 2007
Lee Gitlin
  5.7+
Lee Gitlin  
  5.7+
Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together with a 60 meter rope, although rope drag may become an issue. P1 starts with some straightforward, easy face climbing. Plenty of no hands rests and lots of options for pro (standard rack). After crossing the arete, P1 has some interesting dihedral moves, but nothing too difficult.

P2 has an interesting start. Your best early handholds are also the best chance to place pro, and you will want to get in a piece or two straight away to protect this early crux. The climbing eases up considerably after 15 feet or so.

P3 is a bit broken and discontinuous, but a nice exit into the cave belay station.

P4 is fantastic and protects well with smaller cams and nuts. Go right or don't bother doing this climb. It begins with a very comitting move out onto a face. Do you trust that foot hold? After you get on the face, the pitch is long and continuous.Make sure you bring plenty of pro, or you may find yourself faced with creative gear placement toward the end of P4.

The exit, a steep path that descends to the west, is also pretty sporty, particularly the last 100 vertical feet. You'll find yourself skidding on lots of loose shale.

Nov 9, 2005
ASENDR
 
ASENDR  
 
Correction. That would be p-2 & p-3 that can be combined w/70 meter rope. Oct 5, 2005
ASENDR
 
ASENDR  
 
Great exposure. P-1 & p-2 can be done as one pitch stretching a 70meter rope. Belay just over the top under the big boulder, using a hand size cam and a smaller one Oct 4, 2005
Carl Grundstrom  
  5.7
I loved this route. Three pitches of beautiful rock with great belay ledges. The first pitch is straight-forward and not too difficult. The start of the second pitch is the crux but the difficult section lasts only about 10 feet. The last pitch is steep with sustained 5.7 moves and is the most exciting. Protection is good on all three pitches. A large cam (#4 friend) is useful in two locations. Aug 2, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.7
Nathan Fisher  
  5.7
This climb was a great experience for myself and my partner. Brief history: My brother, his two sons, and I had decided to climb this back in the 90's, but we never did it as the "fear factor" engulfed us on the 1st pitch. We bailed. My partner, Chris, informed me that he wanted to do it, and so I comitted. The climb is neither as scary as people led me to believe, nor as hard to protect. Granted, I probably placed as many pieces on the last pitch as I did on all the other pitches combined, but only because the last pitch was the only sustained pitch. I broke it into 4 pitches and all of the 1st 3 pitches had good sections and weak sections. The 1st pitch initial crack (until you cross the arete) was beautiful. The early moves on the 2nd pitch were exciting. The 3rd pitch coming into the cave was magnificent, but the 4th pitch (exposed right variation) was consistent and fun and well... exposed.

The only fixed gear I saw on the route was at the cave belay (1 piton), and on pitch 2 (another piton). The belay stations at pitch 2 and 3 had slings preset around immobile rocks. There were also 2 "lost" cams on this route. Cam #1 was really lost (broken trigger) and really deep in the crack. Kudos to you if you can get it out, bad karma if you do. Cam 2 would require fingers the size of needles. I am not sure what went through the mind of the climber that placed that piece as it looked like a guaranteed loss. The protection throughout the climb was good, and it required no special gear. Standard rack would work. However a red metolius protected the parallel crack off of the pedestal very nicely.

This climb was the "classic" that I stated for the obvious reasons. 1) the length 2) good rock 3) varied climbing 4) The massive amount of exposure on pitch 4. The only detraction from this climb was the fact that there were easy section interspersed in the climb. Not enough to kill the 3 stars. This climb may become an annual ritual with me. Jul 6, 2004
Vince Romney
  5.7
Vince Romney  
  5.7
Definitely a great route, diverse and with good, committing moves for the grade. I'd caution the inexperienced trad leader to take advantage of each opportunity for pro on the last pitch, particularly as you approach the exit roof. Small-to-micro stoppers are helpful. May 14, 2004