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Routes in Tear Garden

Centre Bullet, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cleanse, Fold, and Manipulate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feels Like the First Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Greater Wrong Of The Right, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
You and Me and Rainbows T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

East facing wall with near vertical sport routes, holding edges and funky moves. Lichen exists on this cliff, but will clean up in time. Also, it seemed that all the 1st bolts were very high. The lines here vary, but difficult face climbing is the theme. Expect shade in the afternoon. Routes are as follows, from left to right:

#1: Feels Like the First Time 5.10a** FA John Rogers/Dave Moore 10/99

#2: Cleanse, Fold, and Manipulate 5.10a** FA John Rogers 7/99

#3 The Centre Bullet 5.10d*** FA John Rogers 10/98

#4 The Greater Wrong Of The Right 5.11b** FA Brandon Wicks/John Rogers 5/99

#5 You and Me and Rainbows .10b/c

If visiting this area, take a look at the lines on The Penguin as well, as they are basically the same crag.

Getting There

Follow the approach for The Penguin. Park on the right side of the road, 3.8 miles up canyon. Hike up the north side of the road; hiking up talus slopes until they end, and then crossing through small patches of scrub oak until the next talus field is acquired. There are cairns, so look for them. The approach is hard and hot, but do-able. This is the east-facing wall that is "slightly" up the wall from The Penguin.
Expect a hot, dry hike, with lots of loose talus.

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A very persistent rattlesnake calls the base of this crag home. Keeps your belay on their toes... Jul 15, 2016
Tear Garden and the Penguin (which are essentially the same crag) are well worth the walk for an afternoon cragging. Centre Bullet and Greater Wrong are almost worth it by the themselves –-- they are as good as anything at Challenge, for example --– and you won'’t find any free standing pinnacles like the Penguin anywhere in main BCC. The area gets good afternoon shade (on August 1, by 1pm), and the approach is well cairned through successive talus fields (when in doubt go left) and generally free of vegetation as of this writing. Aug 3, 2015
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
The climbing here is great - it has cleaned up pretty well. Really interesting thought provoking climbing. Mar 25, 2012
Over The Hill   USA
C.F.M.: Bolt was added to lower section in 2009 per e rock's observation. The rock does have a great deal of lichen on it, and holds have broken off at times. This area will clean up with time, and the brush at the bottom will clear out with additional visitors. Sep 20, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I am curious, with a name like Tear Garden, I expected climb names like "Crystal Mass", "In Search Of My Rose" or perhaps "To Be An Angel Blind." But the only apparent connection here is "Cleanse, Fold, Manipulate" a Skinny Puppy album title. I suppose Cevin Key was part of both projects. Is that the connection or is there some other thing I have missed?
The "Feels Like the First Time" title seems a little Foreign on this wall (snicker).

Oh, and I just noticed 'Greater Wrong of the Right,' S.P's last effort, which I found lacking. Maybe because it was more Key and less Ogre? Jul 12, 2006
e rock
portland, or
e rock   portland, or
i did not feel that the approach was worth the climbing. the rock is dirty and broken in many places. the first bolt on the 5.9 route is high. the belay stance is also unconfortable and unsafe. not any room for a spotter. i pulled a hold out of the wall and experienced my first groundfall ever just below the first bolt on the 5.9. too bad whoever bolted this climb did not consider saftey as a factor on such a dirty, loose climb. i do not suggest visiting the area. Jul 12, 2006
Over The Hill   USA
Sorry to take too long for this. Here is the information of the Tear Garden routes in order from left to right:

#1: Feels like the first time 5.10a **FA John Rogers/ Dave Moore 10/99 (Dave Moore First First Ascent)

#2: Cleanse, Fold, And Manipulate 5.9** (if you use the crack on the left at the end) or 5.10** (if you go straight up the bolted face at the top) FA John Rogers 7/99

#3 The Centre Bullet 5.10d *** FA John Rogers 10/98

#4 The Greater Wrong Of The Right 5.11b** FA Brandon Wicks/ John Rogers5/99

#5 You, Me, and Rainbows 5.10a FA G Kirchhoff, A Mollard Oct 16, 2004
There are now 4 routes on the wall. I am not sure what the left most route is rated but it sure ain't no 5.9!! The 5.9 is the second route from the left. The only routes with what I would consider "high" first bolts were the 5.9 and 10a.

Also, watch that first bolt on the Penguin (old rusty, spinner barely hanging on in a seam) - it really needs replacing. Sep 1, 2004

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