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Routes in Inversion Therapy Wall

Inversion Therapy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soylent Green S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Description

Starting on one of the largest climbable roofs in Big Cottonwood canyon, and extending upwards to a sweeping, steep wall covered with many tiny holds, the Inversion Therapy wall offers an opportunity for the true hardman to establish some very hard routes. The crag enters the shade at 2 pm and has a nice breeze in the late afternoon making it a nice summer evening crag. The crag currently holds only two sport climbs – the classic Inversion Therapy which climbs out the sweeping expanse of the roof, and the much harder two pitch Soylent Green that sits slightly uphill from Inversion therapy on another very steep wall. This wall is essentially undeveloped and offers the opportunity to establish much harder climbs (due to steepness and small holds) than most crags in Big Cottonwood canyon. All these routes need more climbers to ascend them to establish consensus grades.

Getting There

Park at the S-curve and take the Lake Blanche trail to the bridge. Rather than crossing the bridge, turn right and follow a less obvious trail through the brush until you arrive at the talus field. Follow the talus up to the Millstone crag. Climb up along the Millstone to the highest route (Yuppie Love). Turn left at this point and follow a faint trail back into the Talus traversing across the very slightly up hill past cairns. When you reenter some trees you are at the top of the Treadmill crag – traverse down along the downhill side (north) of this crag to a flat area near two large trees at the base of the obviously overhanging wall. From here walk out away from the wall to the trees that parallel the wall heading uphill. Try not to scramble straight up the slope due to erosion concerns. Instead follow the faint zigzagging path uphill to the obvious huge roof. This roof contains Inversion Therapy. Uphill 30 more yards Soylent Green ascends the steep sweep of green rock. There is a cave uphill from this that nesting buzzards use in the spring so please leave them alone and do not establish new routes near their cave (we have plenty of rock). Total approach time from when you leave the Millstone wall is 10-15 minutes. Total time from car is 35-45 minutes.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Inversion Therapy Wall

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
It very well could be 10-15 minutes from the Millstone if you are familiar with the terrain. I found henious bushwack territory with tons of loose dirt/talus, so it took us much longer. I did not see much of a trail from anywhere past Yuppie Love to the base of treadmill or inversion. Beware, this approach is not Dogwood. You had better want it if you want to get up there.
My initial mistaken impression was that this wall was on the same cliffband as the millstone, as the book says to traverse south, which is upcanyon. I would suggest hiking directly toward the lake blanche trail, not upcanyon. Jul 29, 2012

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