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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

This area provides access to a plethora of climbs. Many of these climbs date back to the 40's when Harold Goodro and the Alpenbock members climbed here extensively. You may still find old remnants of slings around trees and rusted, bent-over pitons. It is the hope of some climbers that some of these unused museum pieces stay right where they are, as a natural museum showcase where some of the Wasatch's earliest pioneers went to seek adventure.

In the late 80s, rap-and-drill definitely made one of its initial entries into the Wasatch in this very area. New route activity boomed. On many of these routes people were expected to still utilize the natural gear placements. Placing gear on these mixed BCC routes can be trying and requires a learned skill.

A renewed interest in this area seems to be going on just lately. Always expect to see other climbers here. Try to share the routes and it should go without saying please TR off your own locking carabiners and rappel instead of lower off the chains to increase their shelf life! This is also a safety consideration as well!

The rock is quartzite, typical for Big Cottonwood Canyon, which may present itself as somewhat dirty, but cleans up well with traffic. And that is something that the popular routes see in this area in particular....lots of traffic. Very popular with the "after work" crowd and those seeking a pump in the evening sun.

Getting There

Park as for any of the climbing in the Stairs Gulch area. Hike up the very nice trail west of the streambed and walk around the first buttress one encounters on the right. This is the Challenge Buttress. 10 minute approach.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North and West Faces

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 45
Tuff Enough
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 461
Hollow Man
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 42
Flamin' Freddie
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 3
Split Seam
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 117
cTr
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 200
Better than Bitter
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Guilt Trip
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 251
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 134
Wrecking Ball
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Tuff'n Up
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tuff Enough
 45
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Hollow Man
 461
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Flamin' Freddie
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Split Seam
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
cTr
 117
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Better than Bitter
 200
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Guilt Trip
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting
 251
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Wrecking Ball
 134
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Tuff'n Up
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in North and West Faces »

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Photos

Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
Does anyone know what the route that climbs the face and arete 5 feet left of Tough Enough? Feels like mid .10? Starts the same as Tough Enough, then moves left to a short but sweeeet juggy overhang, then passes two bolts as it follows the arete to chains just left of the Tough Enough crack. First piece was a .75?(red link cam) at the start of Tough Enough, then went left to climb the steep section to get to the first bolt. I thought it was a great climb, and great addition to the area. I can't believe I have never seen it until today. Hoping to find out who put it up and what the rating is?! May 22, 2011
grk10vq    
Broken Thumb May 22, 2011
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
Ah, hah! Paying attention would probably help. Thanks! May 23, 2011
HangOn  
I found a pair of sunglasses by Winky and Waxman 2 days ago. Text me at 347.260.1228 and describe them if they're yours and we'll meet up to get them back to you :) Jun 8, 2015

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