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Elevation: 5,817 ft 1,773 m
GPS: 40.62207, -111.74571
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,322 total · 359/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

Description Suggest change

This area provides access to a plethora of climbs. Many of these climbs date back to the 40's when Harold Goodro and the Alpenbock members climbed here extensively. You may still find old remnants of slings around trees and rusted, bent-over pitons. It is the hope of some climbers that some of these unused museum pieces stay right where they are, as a natural museum showcase where some of the Wasatch's earliest pioneers went to seek adventure.

In the late 80s, rap-and-drill definitely made one of its initial entries into the Wasatch in this very area. New route activity boomed. On many of these routes people were expected to still utilize the natural gear placements. Placing gear on these mixed BCC routes can be trying and requires a learned skill.

A renewed interest in this area seems to be going on just lately. Always expect to see other climbers here. Try to share the routes and it should go without saying please TR off your own locking carabiners and rappel instead of lower off the chains to increase their shelf life! This is also a safety consideration as well!

The rock is quartzite, typical for Big Cottonwood Canyon, which may present itself as somewhat dirty, but cleans up well with traffic. And that is something that the popular routes see in this area in particular....lots of traffic. Very popular with the "after work" crowd and those seeking a pump in the evening sun.

Getting There Suggest change

Park as for any of the climbing in the Stairs Gulch area. Hike up the very nice trail west of the streambed and walk around the first buttress one encounters on the right. This is the Challenge Buttress. 10 minute approach.

18 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: North and West Faces Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North and West Faces

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 106
The Roadster
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 77
Tuff Enough
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 683
Hollow Man
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 50
Flamin' Freddie
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 5
Split Seam
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Broken Thumb
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 206
cTr
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 309
Better than Bitter
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
 390
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting
Sport, Boulder
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 227
Wrecking Ball
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
Guilt Trip
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 4
Pins and Knickers
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Tuff'n Up
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 24
Diminishing Returns
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Roadster
 106
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Tuff Enough
 77
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Hollow Man
 683
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Flamin' Freddie
 50
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Split Seam
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad
Broken Thumb
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
cTr
 206
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Better than Bitter
 309
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting
 390
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+ Sport, Boulder
Wrecking Ball
 227
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Guilt Trip
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pins and Knickers
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad
Tuff'n Up
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Diminishing Returns
 24
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in North and West Faces »

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