Geezer Wall Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,238 ft |
GPS: |
40.6198, -111.7445 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 55,319 total · 318/month |
Shared By: | Mark Sgt on Aug 16, 2009 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Description
This wall was developed in the late 1980s. The formation is called Buena Vista Ridge. This side of the ridge was called Redrum Wall. A photograph clearly showing the wall with an arrow pointing directly on this wall was widely published in print form in the early 1990s. The publication was a rock climbing guidebook by Stuart and Bret Ruckman. The wall has easy to moderately difficult traditional routes that are mostly very well protected with nuts and cams.
This wall of easy-moderates was developed with the intent of providing another BCC alternative to the budding outdoor leader; luckily, there are several harder climbs that will give the more experienced leader something to get on after they do the climb. The routes were put up keeping in mind the climber at that particular grade so more experienced climbers may find some of the bolts superfluous however I expect folks climbing at their limit at that grade will clip every bolt. Most of the routes only need draws but several do require some gear; see route descriptions for those routes. All routes can be climbed and rapped with a single 60 meter rope though you may have to rappel to an intermediate anchor or off to the side (upslope from the start of your climb). Remember to tie a knot at the end of your rope when rappelling. Several of the climbs have a rising traverse nature to them to maximize the climbing. There are two sections of Geezer Wall; the Main Slab and Climbers Choice Wall. Altogether these climbs come close to a 1000 feet of new climbing in BCC--enjoy!
These routes were put in by a community of friends over several months time mostly mid-week after work, racing against dwindling light, multiple June showers and all the speed bumps of daily life. Because of the piece-mix of time spent on this crag you will find several of the climbs to be half-pitches and have their own names; though in reality they could be done together as one long pitch. We utilized camouflaged bolt hangers to minimize impact and they work. I had several folks miss bolts when they did the routes soon after completion so keep your eyes open. Our intent was to make the climbs and area as safe as possible; we cleaned, we pried, and we put a lot of thought into bolt placements but remember climbing can be dangerous at any grade. Take in consideration that this is a new crag and still has some loose stuff on it, keep a look out and wear helmets. Due to the lower angle of the easier routes a fall on the Main Slab area would not be advised. One of the dangers here as a new area is the talus slope; it is very unstable in certain areas, tread carefully. Also several of the climbs are close to 30 meters long so if you going to lower your partner remember to tie a knot in the belayers rope end. Thanks to everyone for their effort and feedback.
This wall of easy-moderates was developed with the intent of providing another BCC alternative to the budding outdoor leader; luckily, there are several harder climbs that will give the more experienced leader something to get on after they do the climb. The routes were put up keeping in mind the climber at that particular grade so more experienced climbers may find some of the bolts superfluous however I expect folks climbing at their limit at that grade will clip every bolt. Most of the routes only need draws but several do require some gear; see route descriptions for those routes. All routes can be climbed and rapped with a single 60 meter rope though you may have to rappel to an intermediate anchor or off to the side (upslope from the start of your climb). Remember to tie a knot at the end of your rope when rappelling. Several of the climbs have a rising traverse nature to them to maximize the climbing. There are two sections of Geezer Wall; the Main Slab and Climbers Choice Wall. Altogether these climbs come close to a 1000 feet of new climbing in BCC--enjoy!
These routes were put in by a community of friends over several months time mostly mid-week after work, racing against dwindling light, multiple June showers and all the speed bumps of daily life. Because of the piece-mix of time spent on this crag you will find several of the climbs to be half-pitches and have their own names; though in reality they could be done together as one long pitch. We utilized camouflaged bolt hangers to minimize impact and they work. I had several folks miss bolts when they did the routes soon after completion so keep your eyes open. Our intent was to make the climbs and area as safe as possible; we cleaned, we pried, and we put a lot of thought into bolt placements but remember climbing can be dangerous at any grade. Take in consideration that this is a new crag and still has some loose stuff on it, keep a look out and wear helmets. Due to the lower angle of the easier routes a fall on the Main Slab area would not be advised. One of the dangers here as a new area is the talus slope; it is very unstable in certain areas, tread carefully. Also several of the climbs are close to 30 meters long so if you going to lower your partner remember to tie a knot in the belayers rope end. Thanks to everyone for their effort and feedback.
Getting There
The lower climbs of Geezer Wall are located halfway between the start of Steorts Ridge and Glass Ocean. Go up as you would for Glass Ocean then just break out left, and cross the talus field (loose stuff here be careful). You may pick up a trail from the start of Steorts Ridge that will take you up and left to a fin of rock extending up to Geezer Wall. Follow this trail up next to the rock fin to the bottom of the talus field. Then go immediately over to Whipper Snapper as the talus tends to be more settled next to the wall. Dont make the mistake of going around the fin of rock down close to Steorts Ridge towards Vector Madness this is not the way. Expect a 15-25 min walk from the road. The upper end of Geezer Wall/Climbers Choice Wall takes you to just below the climb Redrum. During the summer Geezer Wall has been in the shade until about noon and then in the sun only until about 5 PM.
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