Type: Trad, 530 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 30,653 total · 158/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Aug 21, 2004 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Start on the right/west end of the North face, linking small weaknesses to a big ledge at 180+ feet. Build a belay and/or move belay around the corner 50 feet to the right.
Pitch 2: Climb a large left facing corner, staying left below steep roofs....a very smooth slab section is mastered using holds on the right and a long reach. Belay on obvious nice ledge.
Pitch 3: Start by climbing either of two left angling cracks for about 25 feet (fingers on the right, thin hands on the left)....avoid large roof by moving right along a nice shelf/flake (long slings to avoid rope drag!!)....then straight up steeper rock/crack to large shale covered ledge (sling sharp edged boulder for belay).
Pitch 4: Scramble left along the ledge (loose shale!!), and climb 50 feet to summit (sling boulder to belay).

To descend: From the boulders atop the route, scramble south along the shale ridge towards the true summit, and then angle down a nice ramp to the left (east) to a group of pine trees. Three single rope rappels off nice, live pine trees reaches the scree at the base of the northeast face.

Bolted anchors go with a single 70m rope, a 60 will require a loose and exposed albeit short downclimb

Protection

I placed lots of cams, from #0 TCU to #2 Camalot, and the occaisional nut. You'll want plenty of long runners, and some very long slings/cordellette for belays (slung flakes). Only some loose rock keeps this from being a 3 star classic!!

Photos