Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman
Page Views: 15,058 total · 86/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Jul 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


254 Opinions

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Description

One of the funnest, steepest, most popular routes in the canyon. I worked this several years ago on a bet...which I eventually won by redpointing the route. Surprised myself that I could still do the moves, if not the whole route (yet). Super clean falls on well tested bolts. Clipping the bolt at the lip and pulling over on the slopers is the crux. This route is way overchalked and needs a serious scrubbing!!! Bring a brush and a squirt bottle for when you're done!

Protection

Mostly big holds up a steeeeep wall. Individual moves aren't that hard...it's just a pumper, so don't be afraid to project this puppy!
Alec LaLonde  
 
Bouldery start; use a spotter. Take a rest before the steepness then fire it quick. Crux is getting over the lip, don't be afraid to get creative. Jun 26, 2008
Steve M Miller
Park City, Ut
Steve M Miller   Park City, Ut
free carabiner on this route couldn't quite make it over the last bug pull (but an awesome route wish i wasn't so pumped when I started working it ) so had to bail fair game for who ever get's this biner it's just an old Omega Pacific figured i'd let some one know Oct 12, 2009
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
 
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
 
This is such a classic route. I didn't find pulling the lip to be all that hard. There really is no technical crux just a redpoint crux. You get pumped and the holds on the lip seam difficult, but really they are very positive. The trick to this route is to move fast and don't dink around. Mar 30, 2010
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
  5.11a
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
  5.11a
Classic, good to spin laps on Aug 10, 2011
DTM
DTM  
JUG HAUL!! Good route. Sep 9, 2011
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
 
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
 
A number of the hangers spin on this route. The hanger at the crux lip is the worst (made for a harder clip as I pushed the hanger around with my draw. May 16, 2013
Timothy Jones and I just filmed a video of this route with some local female climbers. Enjoy!

vimeo.com/78774102 Nov 6, 2013
If you like Black Monday, you might like Black Tuesday

mountainproject.com/v/black… Aug 29, 2015
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Climbed this again today and I was left thinking: what makes so many peeps think this is 4 stars? Is it the starting bulges that can be climbed 10 different ways and end 15 feet up at the no hands slab? Is it the greasy creaky edges that keep breaking in new places year after year? Is it the 13 feet of 3 bolts and off- balance overhanging climbing? Is it the hidden holds at the crux?Perhaps it's the slabby finish that ends lower than it could have? Hmmm...I'll guess I'll never know... May 1, 2018
We did a shoot last year of pro climber Brittany Griffith doing the route. Fun day. youtu.be/0NWyuoiPN90 Jul 23, 2018