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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass, Stuart Ruckman
Page Views: 13,890 total, 85/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Jul 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


223 Opinions

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Description

One of the funnest, steepest, most popular routes in the canyon. I worked this several years ago on a bet...which I eventually won by redpointing the route. Surprised myself that I could still do the moves, if not the whole route (yet). Super clean falls on well tested bolts. Clipping the bolt at the lip and pulling over on the slopers is the crux. This route is way overchalked and needs a serious scrubbing!!! Bring a brush and a squirt bottle for when you're done!

Protection

Mostly big holds up a steeeeep wall. Individual moves aren't that hard...it's just a pumper, so don't be afraid to project this puppy!
J Saarela
Park City
 
J Saarela   Park City
 
9/28/17: Though the route was recently rebolted (THANK YOU SLCA), bolt #5 (bolt before crux clip; sees the most falls as top piece) is spinning pretty good. Didn't have a wrench to tighten it up. More incentive to make that redpoint! Sep 28, 2017
If you like Black Monday, you might like Black Tuesday

mountainproject.com/v/black… Aug 29, 2015
Timothy Jones and I just filmed a video of this route with some local female climbers. Enjoy!

vimeo.com/78774102 Nov 6, 2013
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
 
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
 
A number of the hangers spin on this route. The hanger at the crux lip is the worst (made for a harder clip as I pushed the hanger around with my draw. May 16, 2013
DTM
DTM  
JUG HAUL!! Good route. Sep 9, 2011
Cowboy Roy
SLC, UT
  5.11a
Cowboy Roy   SLC, UT
  5.11a
Classic, good to spin laps on Aug 10, 2011
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
 
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
 
This is such a classic route. I didn't find pulling the lip to be all that hard. There really is no technical crux just a redpoint crux. You get pumped and the holds on the lip seam difficult, but really they are very positive. The trick to this route is to move fast and don't dink around. Mar 30, 2010
Steve M Miller
Park City, Ut
Steve M Miller   Park City, Ut
free carabiner on this route couldn't quite make it over the last bug pull (but an awesome route wish i wasn't so pumped when I started working it ) so had to bail fair game for who ever get's this biner it's just an old Omega Pacific figured i'd let some one know Oct 12, 2009
Alec LaLonde  
 
Bouldery start; use a spotter. Take a rest before the steepness then fire it quick. Crux is getting over the lip, don't be afraid to get creative. Jun 26, 2008