Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot, Stuart Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 1,628 total · 9/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This route is similar in nature to its neighbor, Melting Point 5.10b, but a little harder the whole way up. Climb this as one or two pitches. If doing it as two:

P1) Start on the 2nd bolted route from the left, just right of the huge roof. The crux is the first few moves, and is somewhat height dependent. If you can get established off the ground, the rest of the route eases up. Pull a small roof at the 2nd bolt, then wander up easy terrain to the intermediate anchor. 5.10d (4 bolts total)

P2) Trend left from the anchor. Climb through 3 bolts with steep jug hauling, which finishes the overhang. Finish by climbing up the top part of Melting Point through 2 pitons. 5.10a

Descent) 60m rope barely reaches the ground. Otherwise, make 2 raps uing the intermediate anchor.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 pins

Photos

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Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.11a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.11a
Great route with some good moves. Tough initial move seemed harder than 5.10d. Maybe, it was just me. May 22, 2005
Garrett C
SL, UT
 
Garrett C   SL, UT
 
Fun but short. After clearing roof it was 5.7 to chains May 29, 2014