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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Page Views: 1,963 total, 12/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route that can be done as 1 or 2 pitches. I'll describe as 2 pitches, but if you run it together just make sure to use some longer runners. When approaching the lower wall, this is the 3rd bolted route encountered from the left.

P1) Steep pitch through 5 bolts which traverse up and right quite a bit. Most of the bolts have been hammered for some reason. After the fifth bolt, the climbing eases considerably up to a 2-bolt anchor. Good warmup for the upper pitch! 5.9+

P2) From the anchors, this is the route that trends right. Climb through 4 bolts which pull through 2 good sized roofs. 5.11a

Descent) 2 one-rope raps with a 50m. I think a 60m rope might barely reach the ground from the top, but be careful.

Protection

9 bolts.

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Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
Fun climb, but that first pitch seemed a little harder than a 5.9 to me, and I consider myself a fairly decent 5.9 leader. Definitely worth doing.

Edit: Climbed this again today, still felt harder than 5.9. Awkward moves up through the roof and traversing right. Jun 16, 2013
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
I made the mistake of doing this in one pitch. Even with longer draws the rope drag was crazy! Loved the roofs up high. Jul 24, 2012
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
Fun, juggy first pitch. Second pitch is good but has a short crux. Don’t cheat yourself by clipping the chains from below the second roof, pull it first! Oct 21, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
 
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
 
Pitch 1 by itself is one of the steepest (and funnest IMO) 9's in the canyon. But definately a 9+. Might feel like a 10- if your not in your game. Jun 24, 2009
bridger1  
 
A 60m will reach the ground on this one, with a few feet to spare. Mar 22, 2009