Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Page Views: 2,123 total · 12/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Aug 6, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun route that can be done as 1 or 2 pitches. I'll describe as 2 pitches, but if you run it together just make sure to use some longer runners. When approaching the lower wall, this is the 3rd bolted route encountered from the left.

P1) Steep pitch through 5 bolts which traverse up and right quite a bit. Most of the bolts have been hammered for some reason. After the fifth bolt, the climbing eases considerably up to a 2-bolt anchor. Good warmup for the upper pitch! 5.9+

P2) From the anchors, this is the route that trends right. Climb through 4 bolts which pull through 2 good sized roofs. 5.11a

Descent) 2 one-rope raps with a 50m. I think a 60m rope might barely reach the ground from the top, but be careful.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos

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bridger1  
 
A 60m will reach the ground on this one, with a few feet to spare. Mar 22, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
 
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
 
Pitch 1 by itself is one of the steepest (and funnest IMO) 9's in the canyon. But definately a 9+. Might feel like a 10- if your not in your game. Jun 24, 2009
Riddler
Sammamish, WA
 
Riddler   Sammamish, WA
 
Fun, juggy first pitch. Second pitch is good but has a short crux. Don’t cheat yourself by clipping the chains from below the second roof, pull it first! Oct 21, 2009
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
I made the mistake of doing this in one pitch. Even with longer draws the rope drag was crazy! Loved the roofs up high. Jul 24, 2012
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.10a
Fun climb, but that first pitch seemed a little harder than a 5.9 to me, and I consider myself a fairly decent 5.9 leader. Definitely worth doing.

Edit: Climbed this again today, still felt harder than 5.9. Awkward moves up through the roof and traversing right. Jun 16, 2013