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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,562 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the corner underneath the Mass Wasting roof. The climbing gets really easy on the ramp, but protection opportunities are rare, so don't pass any up (there are belay chains here if you have a 50 meter rope and can't reach the bottom). Climb around the left (West) side of the Mass Wasting roof and pass a rusty pin. This is where the fun of the route begins. Wind your way up the steep section until you arrive under a small roof. A thin finger-tip crack traverses up and to the right around the roof, providing an exposed, crux finish. Good footwork and sequential hands are key to unlocking the crux. Believe it or not, there are good stances for pro here.

Location

Between Ionic Bonding and Mass Wasting, start in the corner just left (West) of Red Light District. Walk off or rappel off of Ionic Bonding's chain anchors.

Protection

Standard rack and a helmet, small TCUs help at the crux. The Ruckman guide shows 3 pins, I only saw one, and it was super manky (and next to a bomber #1 camalot placement). Rope drag is a bear, even if you use long runners. No anchors at top.

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dnaiscool  
 
This is route is an adventure trad climb sandwiched in the book of Sport. If you've ticked all the rest, then grab that BCC rack (lots of thin nuts & TCU triples) and tick this little gem. It packs a lot of climbing in a rope stretching pitch. Apr 21, 2015