Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Stuart Ruckman 1990
Page Views: 271 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

A steep roof variation, not quite as hard as it looks. The holds are there it is just a matter of getting set and making the move quickly.

Protection

2 anchors at the top of the 5.9's. There also might be anchors just above the roof. Otherwise 2 draws for the variation plus 5 more to finish on either of the 5.9's.

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Photos

Photo of the start. Crux is the last overhang in the shade, Easy after you get over into the sunny part in the photo.
Photo of the start. Crux is the last overhang…
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Getting set for the lip.
Getting set for the lip.
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7 Comments

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Michael MacFadden
 
Michael MacFadden  
 
This route is pretty fun if you like bouldery starts. It feels V3-ish up and over the roof. It's just a matter of figuring out the sequence and moving through it efficiently. After the roof your just on a 5.9 face to the top. Jun 26, 2008
DCrane
Taylorsville, UT
 
DCrane   Taylorsville, UT
 
That hold you're considering is as good, if not better, than it looks. Just go for it. Jun 23, 2012
AL .
UT
  5.10c/d
AL .   UT
  5.10c/d
the start is super fun, I managed to get on this lead by accident when I first came to S-curves thinking it was choir boy or chorus line, back then I was maybe leading 5.10b's. not a long enough hard section to call it in the 11's in my opinion. Feb 22, 2013
Erik R Johnson
Tacoma, WA
Erik R Johnson   Tacoma, WA
I have to agree that it seems easier than 11b. I thought it was easier than the unknown 10d next to it. As always, grades are subjective but the holds are pretty good... May 5, 2013
Celina Suarez
Celina Suarez  
I'd say 11b or a little harder if you are short (~5ft give or take). You end up on the roof with nothing but heel hooks for feet for a lot longer than taller folks who can use the lower ledge to stand. May 28, 2013
zenetopia
zenetopia  
This is pretty fun. Cool moves, but i can't for the life of me figure out why it goes at 11b... much easier... May 30, 2013
alex reb.
  5.11a
alex reb.  
  5.11a
fun short crux on the bottom overhang, easy fun climbing after.
most def. easier than its rating, id say 5.10d Jun 17, 2013