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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brain and Vicki Smoot 1990
Page Views: 3,629 total · 20/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Jun 13, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts towards the right (eastern) end of the first section of the lower S-Curves wall. It is directly below a smaller roof about 100 feet to the right of the giant roof.

The first two bolts take you over a funky roof that seems much harder than the 5.9+ given in Ruckman's book. The holds were there, but we were a bit sketched out until we got a top-rope on it. It is possible to climb left or right around the roof, but this would definitely be off-route and not quite as fun.

After the crux, the climbing is relatively straight-forward, though many of the obvious looking holds seem to be pointing down. The route moves up to the right and finishes to the right of the large roof directly above your belayer. Once you get to the top, you'll have a fine view up and down the canyon.

Protection

Six bolts to a double chain anchor. The hangers look a bit old and most of them spin, but it didn't really bother us. The chains are solid.

Photos

This is the worst of the S-Curves. If you have never been before, don't do this route. It sucks. Jun 28, 2003
I thought it kind of sucked at first as well...and I've heard that from others as well, but the more we did it, the more compelling it was. I still haven't led it, but would like to give it another go. It's fun in a scary way. I'd probably even rate it harder than 5.10a but thought I might be doing something wrong since Ruckman only gives it 5.9+. Jun 30, 2003
I did this route recently. The first two bolt placements really could have been a little better thought out since they create an issue with rope drag over the lip of the small roof past the second bolt. Even though I did it after I ran up Madison Avenue, right next to it, it still only felt like stiff 5.9 climbing. It was an enjoyable route all the same. For the bold leader, skip the first bolt and clip the second one with a three foot runner to eliminate rope drag or damage to your rope. Merrill Bitter told me that he'd recently replaced the anchors to make them a little better for the descent, but they are a long way out from the last bolt so beware. Oct 19, 2003
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9+
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9+
Not nearly as bad a climb as I was led to believe. The rating seems adequate. However, that 2nd bolt is a hard clip. Jun 17, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9+
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9+
Bolts 3,4,5 are spinners Jun 17, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.10a
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10a
The route has to be .10a, if for nothing more than the nature of the roof pull which is much tougher that the roof at Chorus line. Also, there are some scary times on lead in the 2nd half of the climb, not many positive holds at all through there. If this rating is at your level, I would absolutely advise getting the crux "dialed" on toprope before attempting a lead. Jun 17, 2004
D Argyle
Green Mountain Falls, CO
  5.9+
D Argyle   Green Mountain Falls, CO
  5.9+
9+ imo. But I suppose I could attribute that to my ape-like arm span and featherweight classification. Jan 18, 2006
worfeus  
I led this route in 1991, and it was rated 5 9+ then.

I fell on the first roof and hit my head pretty bad on the overhang, so be carefull. That second clip is a bitch.

Using a 3 foot runner is a good idea, but if you fall on that second clip, ouch. Mar 4, 2006
Alec LaLonde
  5.10a
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10a
I really enjoyed this route. Pulling the roof is fun (tough to clip that second bolt though) and the climbing above is varied and technical. It's pretty run out after the 3rd bolt, which still spins. May 7, 2008
found out that this route is quite an intimidating route. I really enjoyed pulling the roof only to find that the route stays varied throughout. pretty hairy threw bolts 3-4. nasty fall potential but well worth doing May 31, 2009
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.10a
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.10a
One of the scariest onsight leads I have done. I didn't like the old rusty spinners, so I did my best to not fall. The roof section is probably a little easier if you are tall. The upper section is challenging around the 4th bolt or so - you kind of have to go out on a limb and trust your feet. The exposure gets the blood flowing. I'd give this climb two stars if the bolts were in better condition. Sep 23, 2009
Vanessa Fabian
Jackson, WY
Vanessa Fabian   Jackson, WY
geting to the second clip is a nightmare. poor placement Sep 20, 2012
dnaiscool  
 
Gotta go with The Anonymous Coward on this one: Worst route in the area. That lame clip at #2 could send you on a mammoth fall...how did that happen on a rap & drill?

How about some one get the permission slip from the FA team and retro fit the bolts into the correct positions? If it took no risk putting the bolts in, then why should it tae a big risk to clip them?

Fix the route... Apr 21, 2015
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
At the second bolt the route goes directly under it or slightly to the left...it's not that hard. Everybody goes right, but that's not where the original route goes...be a hero and go left. If I move the bolt farther right, then this climb will no longer have the distinction of being "the worst route in the area". :)

Update:

There is now a new bolt to the right, so you can go either way. Apr 22, 2015
J Saarela
Park City
5.10a PG13
J Saarela   Park City
5.10a PG13
They're not Leeper Hangers, they're SMC's (the new variety, but still seemed a bit sketchy). Bolts 1 and 2 are new, and bomber. But 3, 4, 5, and 6, were all orange and spinning BAD (to the point where the hangers would raise off from the rock when clipped). Would feel much safer with newer bolts. DEFINITELY at least bring a wrench. Climb wasn't worth the sketch factor. Nov 1, 2015
Jackson Smith
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Jackson Smith   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
I wouldn't put this at worst climb at S-Curves. I didn't deal with any spinners, I seem to remember SLCA rebolting S-Curves last year. Definitely big fall potential but that is due to the style of bolting during the time this route was put up, not PG-13 but you do have to have your head together while on the sharp end. May 20, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
I've always enjoyed this route and enjoy it even more now with the new bolts thanks to the SLCA. Surprised nobody has mentioned that the bottom section is best climbed using serious side pulls off the jugs to the right of the bolts. You are leaning hard left as you clip the second bolt. Was wondering what was up with the new bolt, so thanks for the update Brian. Be careful getting to the 4 bolt as a fall there could be dangerous. Above that you can go left or right. I prefer left although seems most go right. Jun 12, 2018
Ha ha. This was my first lead because it had 6 bolts and we had scrimped together 6 draws. Most subsequent leads have not been so scary. Jun 12, 2018

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