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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Page Views: 3,660 total, 22/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Jun 24, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Second route as you arrive to the wall. Climbs just right of the huge roof.

Fun climb. Probably only a one star but I gave it two because it's long single pitch route. Tough start but eases up, then leads to another 5.10 move, eases again then the final crux before the chains. A lot of, almost too good, resting spots on this route.

Protection

9 quickdraws for bolts and fixed pins with a two anchors at the top. Bring a longer rope.
Ryan202
West Jordan, UT
Ryan202   West Jordan, UT
I agree that I wouldn't give this a 10b rating. Cruxes are at the very start and then the second roof up high; easy climbing (5.7 - 5.8?) otherwise. I thought the second roof was a little harder.

Mixed opinions on whether a 60m can make it down all the way. One party said they lowered on a 60m and it just barely made it; the other party 20min later said their 60m left them 10-15ft above the ground. We didn't take the chance and rapped. Sep 16, 2016
KameronM  
 
Bring up some extendables and use them underneath roofs and when clipping the old pitons, the rope drag gets pretty heinous near the top. Fun route. Like others have mentioned there's a few spicy moves to get to the first bolt, a stick clip wouldn't be a bad idea. Nov 9, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
Hard up till second bolt, then eases up considerably. Too many resting spots to warrant 10b in my opinion. Really enjoyed the height and exposure May 29, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
You can rappel (but not lower) with a 60. Oct 24, 2011
Clastic Cling is the line just to the right. It joins Melting Point just after the final roof. Climbs very similarly to MP but is harder to get off the deck. Sep 22, 2010
Lucas J Matthews
  5.10b
Lucas J Matthews  
  5.10b
I fail to distinguish this route from "Clastic Cling" (10d). Sep 21, 2010
Alec LaLonde  
 
Rappelled this with two ropes today. The anchors are the highest on the wall so I don't think a 60 would cut it. May 13, 2008
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.10b PG13
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.10b PG13
60m rope doesn't quite make it. It's short like 3 feet. It was close enough that I could get down by grabbing the rope on the other end and lowering myself the last 3 feet without the ATC. This could be a classic climb if it wasn't for the horrible bolts on it. The second bolt is one of those old bolts that doesn't have a high strength rating. Another bolt spins (not good). And the first bolt on the second crux is barely out of reach from the comfortable ledge after the long run-out. I recommend putting another bolt before it, or you could find somewhere to place some pro. After the second crux, the only protection you have is 2 old pitons. The first one looks ok, but the second looks pretty sketchy!! The top anchors look kind of bad too, but they work. I would recommend changing them, but since I've never put in bolts nor do I have the equipment, I can't do it. Overall awesome climb. It would be a classic if it had better protection! Sep 19, 2007
L. Hamilton  
 
Did this route for the first time yesterday, Friday the 13th, and noticed that the first bolt is placed just above a lip so your biner levers across the edge. One of the higher bolts (the 2nd?) had a similar placement. In both cases, threading a sling through the hanger looked better than clipping directly.

Nice climb, though. Oct 14, 2006
Tolga Tasdizen
Salt Lake City, UT
Tolga Tasdizen   Salt Lake City, UT
Sort of decked on this route today. After clipping the first bolt, couldn't go straight up so I went 4-5 feet to the right like I have done many times before. I had just cleared the lip (probably 7-8 feet diagonally from the first bolt) when my right hand hold broke. The rope started catching probably a few feet off the ground, but I still hit with my left side. Luckily, I hit a few feet from the rock at the base so I am fine except for some bruises on my left arm, knee and hip. We left the draw on the first bolt and headed home... Just a heads up for others who like going to the right after the first bolt like me... you are going to be missing a hold there! Nov 24, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b
Good route, with good exposure and length. That being the reason I gave 2 stars. Otherwise the long expanse of easy moves detract. May 22, 2005
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
This route has some really cool moves, but is not sustained at all. A tricky opening sequence leads to a long section of easy rock. The upper wall (bolts 5 through 7) is really good. Steep jug haul that makes this route.

Make sure to have a 60m rope for the rap. Otherwise, use the intermediate rap station just to the right for 2 rappels. Aug 7, 2004