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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: J. Steiger and J. Saviers-Steiger, Nov. 3, 2007
Page Views: 139 total · 1/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Apr 18, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the indistinct, not too appealing buttress (hence the name: Not Much...to look at) that leads up and past the left side of the giant roof on Lower S Curve. When the approach trail hits the base of the crag, look left and locate a 3-4 foot high solitary boulder out from the base. The route begins another 15 feet to the left. Climb up to a bulge, place a good microcam, then turn it to get on to the buttress proper above. Wander more or less straight up lower angle rock that kicks back out near the left side of the giant roof. The last 30 or so feet is the best climbing on the route, somewhat steep as I recall but fairly benign.

Location

As far as I can tell, this is the left-most line on Lower S Curve. Walk off.

Protection

Standard trad rack to a 3 inch cam, except bring along the smallest microcam you have to protect the move over the bulge at the base of the buttress. No fixed gear.

Photos

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John Steiger  
 
If someone's done this, let me know. This seemed like a pretty obvious line to me, and given the immense popularity of the area, it's hard to believe no one has bothered to climb it (or maybe just named it, eh?). Apr 19, 2008