Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass, and Eric Stroud 1989
Page Views: 579 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

Just right of Red Light District. This pumpy climb will tire you out quicker than you think. It is very consistent, and doesn't allow much resting. You might find a stance to rest just before the second roof (Between bolts 3 and 4).

Protection

5 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors (Chains)

Photos

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Lee Gitlin
  5.11a
Lee Gitlin  
  5.11a
Mama mia what a sustained route! Bring your best boulder moves, yoga flexibility and muscle endurance. This line had me dripping sweat, even on a cool, cloudy day. No fluff at all in Ruckman's .10d label. I rate it a touch harder, given its relentless nature. Jun 17, 2004
vincent pierce
  5.10d
vincent pierce  
  5.10d
From the first bolt to the last, this route stays tough. It has that S-curve down sloping hold thing going on. It feels 10.d all the way up and, because it is so sustained, seems WAY harder than the 10.d next to it. Sep 22, 2005
jspitzer  
 
Good route, and will give you a solid pump on it.

Bolts are in good condition on this route. Nov 3, 2012
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Fun route that starts tough and doesn't let up until right below the chains. I thought this was a little harder than Black Monday (11a) on the same wall, but maybe I was just having a bad day. On the crux, I went right which seemed to be the way most people go, but my friend went left which looked a little easier. Not sure if that is the intended route though. Nov 7, 2012
AL .
UT
  5.10d
AL .   UT
  5.10d
^ i agree this was harder than Black Monday, probably just due to the sustained nature seeing as Black Monday felt like 11a for only the 3 bolts on the over hang. The intended route also kind of escapes me on this climb. Feb 22, 2013
Sean C
SLC
 
Sean C   SLC
 
I enjoyed this climb more than Black Monday. More sustained, longer, delicate moves. In my opinion Black Monday should be .10d and this should be .11a. Worth hitting if at the wall! Jun 16, 2015