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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass, and Eric Stroud 1989
Page Views: 370 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 16, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Just right of Red Light District. This pumpy climb will tire you out quicker than you think. It is very consistent, and doesn't allow much resting. You might find a stance to rest just before the second roof (Between bolts 3 and 4).

Protection

5 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors (Chains)

Photos

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Sean C
SLC
 
Sean C   SLC
 
I enjoyed this climb more than Black Monday. More sustained, longer, delicate moves. In my opinion Black Monday should be .10d and this should be .11a. Worth hitting if at the wall! Jun 16, 2015
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.10d
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.10d
^ i agree this was harder than Black Monday, probably just due to the sustained nature seeing as Black Monday felt like 11a for only the 3 bolts on the over hang. The intended route also kind of escapes me on this climb. Feb 22, 2013
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Fun route that starts tough and doesn't let up until right below the chains. I thought this was a little harder than Black Monday (11a) on the same wall, but maybe I was just having a bad day. On the crux, I went right which seemed to be the way most people go, but my friend went left which looked a little easier. Not sure if that is the intended route though. Nov 7, 2012
jspitzer  
 
Good route, and will give you a solid pump on it.

Bolts are in good condition on this route. Nov 3, 2012
vincent pierce
  5.10d
vincent pierce  
  5.10d
From the first bolt to the last, this route stays tough. It has that S-curve down sloping hold thing going on. It feels 10.d all the way up and, because it is so sustained, seems WAY harder than the 10.d next to it. Sep 22, 2005
Lee Gitlin
  5.11a
Lee Gitlin  
  5.11a
Mama mia what a sustained route! Bring your best boulder moves, yoga flexibility and muscle endurance. This line had me dripping sweat, even on a cool, cloudy day. No fluff at all in Ruckman's .10d label. I rate it a touch harder, given its relentless nature. Jun 17, 2004