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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1990
Page Views: 1,797 total · 11/month
Shared By: Spencer Anderson on Sep 26, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

The route is the second to last climb, going west to east, on the Lower S-Curve. Follow the steepest line of bolts just to the left of Bourbon Street and the right of Skid Row variation. Start by pulling a big roof on crimps, the crux for sure, then head to the right. Continue to the right on good jugs and meet up with Bourbon Street after bolt 5. Take advantage of rest spots, it's pumpy.

Protection

8 bolts and 2 anchor chains.

Photos

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Seth Hendy
Slc
 
Seth Hendy   Slc
 
Gave this a 4 stars because I think this route is under appreciated. So much fun and a must do route for Scurve climbing. This route has great bolt placement and not sketchy at all. I fell both hands above second bolt attempting to clip draw with no concerns of decking and got back up for a clean finish. My friend fell on the "terrible sketchy" traverce with a clean fall. Enjoy! Feb 27, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
I loved this route, but that was probably because I'd been pulling hard all winter long in the freshly opened Rockreation (1992) with lots of highly motivated and exceptional climbers.

The route was very ....well..."Gym-Like". That killer roof sequence -with the little underclimg crimp to the huck and the heel hook- was pure gymnastic. And what about that cross-lockin' undercling move higher up?

On-sighting this gave me a renewed perspective on the utility of lots of dedicated time in the climbing gym.

Not as continuous as Mass Wasting. Apr 21, 2015
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
 
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
 
terribly sketchy, the runout over into Bourbon Street set me up for a very bad pendulum swing, possible deck definite slam into the wall. If a line was bolted directly up to anchors after the 11c roof section (or if you are a more solid 11c climber than I)it would be AWESOME! It's possible that I was missing a bolt somewhere in between the moves over to bourbon in which case I'd love to know about it. Feb 22, 2013
John Steiger
  5.11c
John Steiger  
  5.11c
Minor detail, but Cross Town joins Bourbon Street after Cross Town’'s fifth bolt. And there are two ways to go from the fifth bolt, straight right to Bourbon Street'’s crux, or up, just left of the fifth bolt, avoiding Bourbon Street'’s crux but offering a slightly harder and more exciting series of moves. Mandatory to lead both to earn your S-curve merit badge. Aug 26, 2012
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
 
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
 
Absolutely fabulous route! Put longer draws on bolts 3 and 5. Cruxes are the beginning and just past bolt 5. Super good. The second will have to clean the beast on toprope.

I think its time for some bolt replacement on this one. Jun 14, 2012