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Routes in S-Curve - Lower

Alpenbock Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Monday S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bourbon Street S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Choir Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chorus Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
City Slave S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Clastic Cling S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cross Town S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gas Chamber S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Times Variation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ionic Bonding S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Madison Avenue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Melting Point S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not Much T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skid Row Variation S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Times Square S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tres Facile T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass
Page Views: 1,958 total · 12/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Edit]

Fun, super steep route just left of Black Monday. I might call this 11b/c, if Black Monday is the standard for 11a. Crux sequence is not as obvious, but the holds are pretty good, if you choose the right ones! Fall at the crux could produce a nasty swing into the ledge below, so make sure your belayer is on their toes!!

Protection [Edit]

Bolts. Bolt placement at the crux makes a ledge fall possible if your belayer isn't on his toes. Shares Black Monday's anchor, so you can preplace draws for the crux, and check out the holds on TR.

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hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11a
Really fun route ... heel hooks steep jugs. Not quite as classic as its 11a neighbor BLACK MONDAY, but another good line for shizzle Oct 15, 2008
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
I found this route easier than Black Monday when I did it. Flashed it putting up the draws, but B. Monday required 3 tries. Nov 25, 2009
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I thought this was considerably easier than BM. As long as you can heel-hook, the overhanging corner goes fast; also, the first 1/3 of the climb is not overhung as that of BM. Old, scary, 1/4 bolts all the way. Jul 21, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11a
I also found this significantly easier than Black Monday. Feb 1, 2011
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10d
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10d
Holds are slightly less obvious than Black Monday. Warmed up on Black Monday and then jumped on this and it felt slightly easier. It's a pretty cool route I think! Jun 22, 2013
WillK  
I thought this was harder than Black Monday since I spent more time searching for the good holds. I also think this climb is better than BM. Jun 23, 2017

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