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5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 84 votes
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > S-Curves > S-Curve - Lower

Description

Fun, super steep route just left of Black Monday. I might call this 11b/c, if Black Monday is the standard for 11a. Crux sequence is not as obvious, but the holds are pretty good, if you choose the right ones! Fall at the crux could produce a nasty swing into the ledge below, so make sure your belayer is on their toes!!

Protection

Bolts. Bolt placement at the crux makes a ledge fall possible if your belayer isn't on his toes. Shares Black Monday's anchor, so you can preplace draws for the crux, and check out the holds on TR.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nearing the end of the traverse.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the end of the traverse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hayden Eatchel
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Really fun route ... heel hooks steep jugs. Not quite as classic as its 11a neighbor BLACK MONDAY, but another good line for shizzle Oct 15, 2008
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
[Hide Comment] I found this route easier than Black Monday when I did it. Flashed it putting up the draws, but B. Monday required 3 tries. Nov 25, 2009
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I thought this was considerably easier than BM. As long as you can heel-hook, the overhanging corner goes fast; also, the first 1/3 of the climb is not overhung as that of BM. Old, scary, 1/4 bolts all the way. Jul 21, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I also found this significantly easier than Black Monday. Feb 1, 2011
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Holds are slightly less obvious than Black Monday. Warmed up on Black Monday and then jumped on this and it felt slightly easier. It's a pretty cool route I think! Jun 22, 2013
William Kong
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] I thought this was harder than Black Monday since I spent more time searching for the good holds. I also think this climb is better than BM. Jun 23, 2017
Cherie Yoon
 
[Hide Comment] I found this climb easier and more fun than Black Monday. Overhanging traverse looked intimidating but it was pretty fun with nice sequence. Apr 19, 2021
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Easier than Black Monday, because it's all right in front of you with no strange sequencing. Apr 24, 2021