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Routes in Beer Belly Buttress

12 Oz Curl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ribbon in the Sky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Six-Pack Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whip-Poor-Will Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elevation: 9,000 ft
Page Views: 3,504 total, 34/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Jun 28, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

For those who brave the long approach, the Beer Belly Buttress--the spectacular, west-facing set of smooth walls located high above the Gully of Higher Education, on the north side of the road--offers some of the best stone and, indeed, some of the best-quality moderates in all of Big Cottonwood Canyon. Long, single pitches, breathtaking views high into Broad's Fork and of the Salt Lake Twins--a visit to this crag should top every Wasatch climber's to-do list!

Getting There

The Ruckman guide describes the approach as starting "3.9 miles up canyon from the neon sign." Just past the Storm Mountain spillway, yet before one arrives at the Gully of Higher Education, a big, solitary pine near the base of an obvious scree slope marks the start of the slog. Follow the scree up and towards an obvious fin of rock; scrambling up easy 3rd class sure beats the loose talus! There are some cairns along the way, though from above, there appears to be more than just one faint trail leading to the formation. Get after it!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beer Belly Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Six-Pack Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ribbon in the Sky
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Six-Pack Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ribbon in the Sky 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Easy winner for the worst approach in the wasatch. Lone peak is brutal, but at least you're on a trail. This has horrendous schwak, talus, with cairns littering the slopeside leading you astray into depths of hellish no mans land never to return. We took 1.5 hours but we got lost in deep jungle brush and had to attend to our bleeding feet and sprained ankles along the way. The rock is good, but not that good. Recommend heading up there only if you have climbed at every other crag in the wasatch at least 4 times.

Anchor update: The belay atop ribbon in the sky/whip poor will etc on the main topout is still a bunch of ratty slings on a buttonhead and chockstone. Anchor on top of 12 oz curl is the same minus the buttonhead. May 6, 2013
zoso  
The worst part of the approach is from the road to The Point--sucky talus. It took us about another 35-40 min from there for a total of 1 hour to get Beer Belly.....without packs. There's room for many many more routes, although the plums have been picked. Aug 27, 2012

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