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Routes in Storm Mountain Island

Lenny's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amphitheater Overhang Left S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A1
Amphitheater Overhang Right A1
Aqualung S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Big in Japan S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bolt Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Captain Jack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closing the Gap Variation T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Coco Moco T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge of Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Encore T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Epic Wall T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Generation Gap T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goodro's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Creme De Shorts T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nice Little Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Padded Cell S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Six Appeal S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Six Pence S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Steve The Pirate T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Mountain Stupor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thin Slice of Time T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Unknown 2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 (a.k.a Crag Turkey Escape) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad
FA: Harold Goodro ~1949
Page Views: 23,449 total, 119/month
Shared By: Matt Hepp on Sep 21, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Arguably the first 5.10 in North America. Fun route, good gear, good jams, pumpy. Feeling burly cause you sent it? Some cowboy did the same back in the 40's.

Protection

Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 2". TCUs useful.
Clint K  
LOST CHALK BAG -- early evening Friday, June 16, 2017

Royal purple with black strap and accents, sacred geometry in light blue on the flat bottom.
A friend made it for me -- so bummed to have left it at Goodro's.
Call or text 385) 209-9658
Thank you so much! Jun 19, 2017
Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Single set of cams and nuts up to #2 with doubles in .75 is perfect. Oct 14, 2016
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Cams work fine, but I found that nuts and hexes work best for this climb. Super pumpy on lead, but not as fun as the Green Monster in Rock Canyon. Sep 17, 2016
madskates
slc
madskates   slc
SO MUCH FUN! Oct 29, 2014
leodelta
  5.10c
leodelta  
  5.10c
hands down my favorite climb anywhere. absolute classic! Oct 26, 2014
Seems like everyone is just TR'ing it these days. It protects easily with a single set of BD .3-1, or a set of stoppers. Get the lead to put the climb to rest! Oct 19, 2014
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.10b/c
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.10b/c
Great route, worth the drive for this route alone. Used single set of cams, Blue #1 Metolius - Red BD #1

Jul 5, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
Pretty easy on T.R. if you're expecting 10C. I'm sure the lead would be an ENTIRELY different story. The climb was full of fun fun moves! ...Edit 5/23/13 ran into Alex Quitiquit (never met before) up there today who placed bomber gear, then let me lead on it. Rad dude, rad climb. Thank you sir! May 11, 2013
Tim Harper  
 
Really fun climb. Anchors at the top are solid. We didn't lead the crack though, we set up a top-rope.

To get a top-rope up, we used two 60m ropes. First, we climbed Aqualung to the right, and left the rope up. Then, we climbed up Aqualung again, this time with a 2nd rope (but using the 1st rope as protection), traversed over to the top of Goodro's wall, set up a top-rope, and then came down. Be careful on the traverse, as a far could lead to a size-able swing and slam you in to Aqualung. Wear a helmet, be smart, etc. Sep 12, 2012
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.10b/c
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.10b/c
Don't have a full rack yet but couldn't pass up this gorgeous line so I top roped it. Very fun climb. Amazing hand jams and plenty of rests, I could see great pro for it as well. Right arm felt it halfway up just a bit. Got the onsight TR and look forward to a true onsight with gear. On TR I give it a 10b, we'll see what happens when I lead. Jun 9, 2012
Jaren
NC
Jaren   NC
Back in 2004 I was rappelling after setting up the TR and the bird everyone talks about decided to fly in to its nest right by my head. As it landed a huge snake reached out and ate it. All of this was inches from my face. Needless to say we didn't climb it that day. Who knows what surprise would have met me midway had that bird not flown in. Nov 4, 2011
Murphski Adams
SLC, UT
Murphski Adams   SLC, UT
I left a red Metolious curve nut on this route this evening (9/15/11.)It was getting dark, and I couldn't spend anymore time working on that piece. It should come out fairly easy though. Good karma if you want to get it back to me.

Thanks Sep 15, 2011
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
That gave me a good laugh. And it's not the individual moves but the pump and firing the gear on sight on lead that make this legit 10c Sep 3, 2011
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
 
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
 
I have done this climb maybe 6 times over the last 25 years, never lead it. Last year lead it poorly because of poor cam placement. Talked w/Andy at IME, he suggested nuts. Of course! Made a huge difference today.

On lead I discovered a little easier way to top out moving left. I normally finished fairly straight up, moving slightly right, which might be the basis for the 10b/c rating. For most of the years I did it. it was rated 5.9+. I think objectively, no move is harder than 5.9 (with possible exception of the harder finish), but there are no real rests and quite sustained especially after the roof, and of course very fine grained smooth slab face surfaces. On that basis I would say it merits a hard 5.10a rating, very few 5.10a leaders are going to be able to do it cleanly. Jun 16, 2011
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
Did this climb today. It's an awesome route and super pumpy. Gear can be a little tricky though. The crack varies so much it takes some finesse to get good placements. May 3, 2011
Donovan
West Jordan, Utah
 
Donovan   West Jordan, Utah
 
In my opinion this is one of the ultimate climbs in BCC. Each time I climb it, it seems to have a different crux. Sometimes it's the roof, sometimes it's part of the main crack. Each time I climb it I'm reminded of how ludicrous it would be for me to lead it. Hopefully one day. I try to climb new routes whenever I can, but I'm always game for another go at Goodro's. Oct 8, 2010
You told him to go for it, and he went for it! Nice rap. Sep 28, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
One of the most difficult rappels in the country when it was first done. Sep 27, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Ahhh Goodro's wall... likely the best rappel in the wasatch! Sep 27, 2010
Jon Behrmann
Herriman
 
Jon Behrmann   Herriman
 
Donovan Bagley setting up TR on Goodro's Wall youtube.com/watch?v=S1FkJ0t… Sep 26, 2010
Jerome Sharpe
Wanship, UT
Jerome Sharpe   Wanship, UT
For the sake of clarity, the photo caption says the beautiful fall conditions "on Goodro's and Six Pence". It's actually Six Appeal. Jul 3, 2010
Moonfri
  5.10c
Moonfri  
  5.10c
Ticked this one finally today. Got me good and pumped. A fine climb! Oct 13, 2009
Brandon Caldwell
Salt Lake City, UT
5.10c
Brandon Caldwell   Salt Lake City, UT
5.10c
Climbed Goodro's wall today. This crack reminds me that it has been decades since I was 19!

Always a beautiful climb. I First climbed Goodro's Wall back in the late 80's early 90's. Not as popular back then. A few days without rain and the crack can really get slick. The birds nest about halfway up is now abandoned (for the rest of this year at least). Best crack cilmb in the canyon IMHO. Aug 13, 2009
Wow what a climb. While I had to hang one point and let my right arm regain sensation the mother bird bailed out her nest, right out between my legs. Scared the crap outta me, but it's a great story! And the face on this is slicker than you can even believe. Great crack with superb jams easily top roped for chickens like me. A classic climb. Jun 29, 2009
Easily the funnest climb in the canyon. Pumpy, crack climbing goodness at its finest. Aug 11, 2008
Nick Faust
Sandy, UT
 
Nick Faust   Sandy, UT
 
Watch out for the birds and the bees. Birds nest is still there, about 3/4 of the way up. Bees were swarming up by the anchors. Other than that.... an awesome climb. Jul 9, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.10b/c
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.10b/c
this is a must climb. Awesome jams and a good pump fest to the anchors. Loved it! Pretty easily TR'd also. May 13, 2007
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
This hard is climb! Aug 4, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10c
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10c
favorite crack in the whole canyon.
my first trad lead Jan 28, 2006
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Awesome... climb this route. Jun 8, 2004
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
 
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
 
There is one piton at the base of the roof, and another a short ways above on the face slightly to the right of the main crack. Neither one is probably worth clipping - bomber gear right near both. May 24, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c
2 bolts for the anchors, also I believe 1 piton at the base of the roof. Apr 14, 2004
Actually, Harold Goodro was no cowboy. He was an engineer. In fact Harold was my first climbing instructor way back in 1973 when I was a grad student at U of U. Harold has first ascents all over the place including an important variation on the N Face of the Grand. However, his teaching style was : here's the stuff, now go for it. He had us practice leader falls at Storm Mountain by placing a single pin about 30 feet off the ground, having us climb about 10 feet above it and jumping off. What the hell did we know? I still have scars on my leg from slamming into the rock below the pin. After 28 years of climbing I still think that was the only leader fall I've been hurt on.

Gary Stetler Boulder CO Apr 23, 2002
Climbed this about 5 or 6 months ago. It was a great climb. The surface is quite slick making smears a little dicey. About three quarters of the way up is a bird's nest. Pretty cool to look at the little fellas (they just hatched when we were there). Of course fighting off the mother bird made the climb more thrilling. Definitely worth it!!

-Braden A. Salt Lake City, UT Dec 20, 2001