Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas (1989)
Page Views: 6,789 total · 58/month
Shared By: C H on Jul 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Prominent arete at eastern-end of the Dogwood Crag. Stiff crimpy climbing down low; steep with big moves up top.

Protection

8 bolts, chains.

Photos

Is it true that the original start is on the right side of the arete? Some guys climb the faint crack just left of the arete to start.

But starting on the polished jugs for This Aint No Party is more fun than either, with the rest of the climb at .12d? If you're like me and want to work this but haven't redpointed, going left is a lot less taxing if you still need to figure out the rest. Jul 12, 2009
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Sent? Super proud considering the grease factor. Congratulations!! Jul 13, 2009
Bart Ridd
SLC, UT
 
Bart Ridd   SLC, UT
 
Tried this climb this morning, damn hard! But fun! Definitely rated correctly. Nov 6, 2010
John Martin
Kearns, UT
John Martin   Kearns, UT
DTM
DTM  
First two bolts (just right of the arete)involve a V7ish boulder problem. Mantle and pull up to the super cool, overhanging arete (12c/d from mantle). Sep 9, 2011
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
Awesome route with varied movement. Not greasy, just get on it in good conditions. Solid for the grade. Quality diminished somewhat by the rest ledge, but I think the rock and nature of the climbing still make it one of the best around. Bring your PE for the RP crux up high!

Anyone have info on the bolted line on the right side of the arete? Nov 19, 2016
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.12d
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
  5.12d
Love arĂȘtes, stream side and almost no hike. This is an excellent route! Dec 16, 2016
Ned Plimpton
Salt Lake City
Ned Plimpton   Salt Lake City
Thank you to whoever swapped out the old lower bolts for glue-ins. Can we continue with the rest of the route? Happy to pitch in time or money for getting it done. Shoot me a message. May 7, 2017
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
Just worked this route this morning. Thanks very much to whomever put up all the glue-ins. I've done a fair bit of bouldering in LCC, sent a few v8's but this lower section after hitting the rail was incredibly difficult, couldn't link it. Really loved the top half, need to get some good foot beta though, the face is glass. Aug 2, 2017