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Routes in Dogwood Crag

A Modest Man from Mandrake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ballad of Bricks V1 5
Beck Beck TR V0 4
Cockroach Slip V2 5+
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Drunken Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golemoly V1 5
Haven't A Clue S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Launch V1 5
Life During Wartime T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lion of Zion, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Creatures T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Critters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Things S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
On the Skids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartzite Sans Stainless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandpaper Cloud V0 4
Slinga Tree T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stun the Hun V0 4
Take Me To The River S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unforgiven S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gordon Douglas (1989)
Page Views: 6,163 total · 59/month
Shared By: C H on Jul 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Prominent arete at eastern-end of the Dogwood Crag. Stiff crimpy climbing down low; steep with big moves up top.

Protection

8 bolts, chains.

Photos

Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
Just worked this route this morning. Thanks very much to whomever put up all the glue-ins. I've done a fair bit of bouldering in LCC, sent a few v8's but this lower section after hitting the rail was incredibly difficult, couldn't link it. Really loved the top half, need to get some good foot beta though, the face is glass. Aug 2, 2017
Ned Plimpton
Salt Lake City
Ned Plimpton   Salt Lake City
Thank you to whoever swapped out the old lower bolts for glue-ins. Can we continue with the rest of the route? Happy to pitch in time or money for getting it done. Shoot me a message. May 7, 2017
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.12d
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
  5.12d
Love arĂȘtes, stream side and almost no hike. This is an excellent route! Dec 16, 2016
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
Awesome route with varied movement. Not greasy, just get on it in good conditions. Solid for the grade. Quality diminished somewhat by the rest ledge, but I think the rock and nature of the climbing still make it one of the best around. Bring your PE for the RP crux up high!

Anyone have info on the bolted line on the right side of the arete? Nov 19, 2016
DTM
DTM  
First two bolts (just right of the arete)involve a V7ish boulder problem. Mantle and pull up to the super cool, overhanging arete (12c/d from mantle). Sep 9, 2011
John Martin
Kearns, UT
John Martin   Kearns, UT
Bart Ridd
SLC, UT
 
Bart Ridd   SLC, UT
 
Tried this climb this morning, damn hard! But fun! Definitely rated correctly. Nov 6, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Sent? Super proud considering the grease factor. Congratulations!! Jul 13, 2009
Is it true that the original start is on the right side of the arete? Some guys climb the faint crack just left of the arete to start.

But starting on the polished jugs for This Aint No Party is more fun than either, with the rest of the climb at .12d? If you're like me and want to work this but haven't redpointed, going left is a lot less taxing if you still need to figure out the rest. Jul 12, 2009