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Routes in The Dead Snag

Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Double Bock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Social Engineering T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: JS, JSS, AS, Oct. 2014
Page Views: 705 total, 22/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Apr 19, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Force of Nature is the thin crack system right of Call Me Slim. Begin by climbing a slightly right-angling broken crack until possible to step left to blocky face ending on the ledge. If cherry-picking the "best" line, gain the ledge by starting on Slim, but since you probably did Slim to warm up, consider diversifying by taking the start described here. Above the ledge, a small apex roof poses the first difficulty, followed by some thin jamming to face climbing past five bolts (some interspersed gear) to another thin crack heading toward a crack through a roof band. Pull the roof and continue up a 1-inch crack to the chains. Named to memorialize a full day of cleaning.

Location

Approach as for Social Engineering. Lower from chains with fixed biners with a 70 meter rope.

Protection

Set of wires and cams to a red Camelot (no. 1); considering doubling up on thin-finger size cams (microcams useful) and taking an extra green Camelot (.75). 70m rope likely mandatory for lowering.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
My favorite new BCC route in some time. Might be one of the 5 best in the whole canyon. I think its harder than Weedkiller in that it has plenty of rests but isn't as 'resty'. The rock kept me geeking out about the features and seams. Solid 5.11 climbing with great protection and/or nice jugs to get to the bolts. This whole wall is a huge addition to BCC climbing. Great style, unique movement, intriguing features in the rock. Sep 30, 2015
Best route in the Wasatch!! Sep 30, 2015
Lotapowder
Sandy
 
Lotapowder   Sandy
 
Climbs a lot like Weed Killer on JHCOB Wall. Really fun technical climbing with plenty of rests. In the shade all day. Aug 13, 2015
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11a
You can rap this line with a 60 m rope, it will leave you with about nothing to spare. No top roping though, a 70 m would be mandatory.
Fun route with 2 distinct cruxes surrounding a thin section and moderate climbing for the rest. Jun 1, 2015