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Routes in Art Major Wall

Art Nouveau S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Color Me Wild S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Painting by Numbers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Persistence of Memory, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trompe-L'Oeil T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Elevation: 5,518 ft
GPS: 40.624, -111.771 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,170 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 7, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

Art Major wall has trad routes that are in a shady gully, hidden from the road and the ominous sounds of the city. It is cool in the summer and wet in the spring. There are no anchors, so bring your slings and gear. Also, there is no easy descent. One can downclimb to the east or head NW to the other side of the gully and come down east on the north side of the gully. Watch the debris from UP&L.

Getting There

This is on the north-east side of the Aquaduct Wall. Park just down canyon from dogwood (1.0 miles from the sign) at a gravelly pull out. Head up the trail to the nw. 2 options exist from here, 1) switchback (3) to the Aquaduct wall and then head east around the wall doing some 4th class scrambling to gain the top of the ledges where the aquaduct used to be. Hike along this "trail" till it drops off then look left and you'll see the gully. 2) Head east of the Aquaduct Wall, bushwacking and fighting your way into the debris piles until you reach the gully on your left.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Art Major Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Art Nouveau
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The Persistence of Memory
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Art Nouveau
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Persistence of Memory
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
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Photos

With Bret's blessing and Stuart's acquiescence, the lines of this wall have been bolted, producing one of the better collections of overhanging 5.11 sport routes in BCC, albeit short and tightly packed -- kinda like a 5.11 version of Speed Trap and The Pile. Bret, now living in Boulder, encouraged the retrofit, believing it would be a good addition to lower BCC's sport climbing offerings, especially in the summer (the wall very rarely gets sun). Chains, most with fixed biners, are affixed on all routes. The new bolts (placed August 2016) are 3/8" Powers or Rawls, all but one or two 3.5" long, with Fixe or Metolius hangers. As you clip those fatties, imagine climbing these lines on 80s-era gear; I think you'll be impressed at the game the Ruckmans were playing then -- of course, you can play that game too if you got the moxie, but keep in mind that this is not the super solid quartzite found higher in the canyon.

There are two primary approaches. The quickest (10 minutes) is to head up the well-worn trail to Aqueduct (see that page). From the base of the southeast face, continue along the trail to the east for 50 feet and up until it switches back west to a 30-foot tall third class section of rock that puts you on top of the old aqueduct alignment. Saunter along the trail this until it drops down; Art Major is just to the left behind a large tree. (Don't do the second approach suggested by the OP; it sucks, and the third class section isn't bad if 5.11 is within your grade). The longer (20-25 minutes) but ultra casual approach is to catch the aqueduct alignment trail from the parking area across from Ledgemere Picnic Area. It's hard to find the first time due to the plethora of trails, but the walking is all on very good trail. Sep 24, 2016

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