Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman, 1988
Page Views: 250 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 24, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Prior to the recent addition of bolts, this had to be one of the biggest sandbags in BCC. The Ruckmans' 1998 guide rates it 11a trad, and it humbled me badly before it was bolted. Even after climbing it with the bolts in place, I cannot bring myself to call it 11a (I'm fairly sure it would spank, for example, the Hellgate 11a climber).

For the original line, climb the obvious overhanging seam/thin crack past three bolts, then traverse left along the crack below the fourth bolt to chains shared with Color Me Wild. A direct finish of sorts is to continue up past the fourth bolt to more hard climbing protected by two bolts and ending at a higher set of chains with fixed biners. Probably 11b whether you do the original or direct finish, but the latter offers a titch more hard climbing.

Protection

Draws for 4 bolts and chain anchors for the original finish. For the direct finish, take draws for 6 bolts and a few freebies for the chains in case the fixers have been stolen.

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So much climbing packed into this! Sure hope it's not just that I'm not as good as I used to be. Truth is, this would be a hefty sandbag at .11a!

If you're into it, feel free to pump yourself mad and get the onsight. Just don't forget to take the time to for discovering where all the real holds are located. Most are out of sight or visually deceptive.

Again, super high-flow once you know where you're going. This climb is a very natural progression to get ready for Right Pile. If you can do this two to three times in a row, you'll send .11d anywhere with similar steepness. Jun 15, 2018