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Routes in Art Major Wall

Art Nouveau S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Color Me Wild S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Painting by Numbers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Persistence of Memory, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trompe-L'Oeil T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman, 1988
Page Views: 160 total · 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 24, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Prior to the recent addition of bolts, this had to be one of the biggest sandbags in BCC. The Ruckmans' 1998 guide rates it 11a trad, and it humbled me badly before it was bolted. Even after climbing it with the bolts in place, I cannot bring myself to call it 11a (I'm fairly sure it would spank, for example, the Hellgate 11a climber).

For the original line, climb the obvious overhanging seam/thin crack past three bolts, then traverse left along the crack below the fourth bolt to chains shared with Color Me Wild. A direct finish of sorts is to continue up past the fourth bolt to more hard climbing protected by two bolts and ending at a higher set of chains with fixed biners. Probably 11b whether you do the original or direct finish, but the latter offers a titch more hard climbing.

Protection

Draws for 4 bolts and chain anchors for the original finish. For the direct finish, take draws for 6 bolts and a few freebies for the chains in case the fixers have been stolen.

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