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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Nakada, Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1995
Page Views: 18,080 total, 103/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

On the west face of Challenge Buttress, just around the northwest corner, is this 7 bolt route. This route is great, a consistent 5.9. Find your resting spots and pump it out.

This is a route you climb, and then pump out 3 or 4 more times for a workout. With a pine tree shading the sun in the summer it is a great late afternoon climb to cool down.

Just enjoy this beauty.

Protection

2 anchors, 7 draws
Rap ring on left anchor is indeed looking very worn. Also, single bolt on the left seemed very dicey to me. I used it, but certainly wouldn't do it again. looks like it's about 1/3 of the way out, but I'm guessing it never went all the way in. Fun route! Jun 16, 2017
Ring on left anchor is dangerously thin. Take a wrench, a steel ring, and a quick link if you remember. Thanks to the FA Jul 2, 2016
How did you get down? Aug 1, 2015
J Saarela
Park City
 
J Saarela   Park City
 
Rap rings are showing some wear, getting real groovy in a couple spots. Would recommend against lowering through these. Even rappelling felt sketchy (mostly in my mind) through them. Didn't think of it at the time (as always), but it might be best to rap off the quicklinks holding the rings. Jun 2, 2015
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
Or you could try climbing anything else in the canyon? Jul 1, 2014
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe
Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
 
Thaddeus VanDenBerghe   Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah
 
Feeling Hollow from leading this route too many times?

Try climbing to the right of the bolts, clipping them all with your left hand.
Fun variation that warrants about the same grade (especially if you use footholds on the wall to the right at the start) Jul 1, 2014
Sean Henry Scott IV
salt lake city, ut
Sean Henry Scott IV   salt lake city, ut
Okay route, climbed it today 6/7/2014 and the left hanger is loose and the nut is almost all the way off, unfortunately it was too rusted to tighten. However, there are two newish looking chains right next to it with rap rings so really there is absolutely no need to use that bolt, in fact I would strongely suggest not using it.

The route is fun, but in my opinion not as easy or friendly as say pitch one of Worthy Whoopsie which, by comparison was like a gym climb with closely spaced bolts in very logical and well protected places. Also be aware that the finish to this climb is brutal especially for a pumped out new leader; you're pulling on crimps that just take everything from you and the fall if you botch the clip at the chains is pretty big (trust me), it's safe though. Fun route, however, not something I would rave about like whoopsie. But then again I felt wanky was far easier than both this and whoopsie lol so what do I know. Jun 8, 2014
Needs humanity. Oct 7, 2013
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.9
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.9
Dont see why Ruckman calls this a classic, climbing is fun but nothing spectacular - perhaps I have climbed it too many times. However, this climb is a benchmark for 5.9s in my opinion.

Kirk, I think that third bolt was possibly the original? Looks older than the other two in my opinion. I wouldnt trust a TR set up or lowering on it, I just used it as a third point to clip to while I set the anchors on the other 2 chains. That anchor has been that way for awhile, definitely needs some lovin tho. Sep 21, 2013
Kirk Hilton
Murray, UT
Kirk Hilton   Murray, UT
There's a 3rd bolt at the anchors that is WAY sketch. It still has 2 decent anchor bolts, but the 3rd is about 2/3 of the way unscrewed. Someone needs to tighten it down, or replace it with a glue-in. Again, the anchors are probably ok to rap down off of, but they seem spread out and possibly need some work soon. I don't have any business attempting to fix this kind of thing, but hopefully someone who does will at least take a look at it. Sep 21, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
I think it is only a classic because itÂ’s pretty good and VERY accessible, not because it is of amazing quality. Apr 16, 2013
Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.9
Very slippery holds...not sure I'd call it a "classic" as the guidebooks do. Interesting route though. Dec 2, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.8+
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.8+
Anchor at the bottom is for rope soloing this route. This route could go for a good brushing if anyone is up to do a bit of community service... every hold has about a half inch layer of chalk on it. Like a poster before me... pretty slipperyyyy.

Otherwise awesome route! May 21, 2012
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Finally got a chance to try Hollow Man this weekend. Challenge is always so crowded, especially this route. It's for good reason though since it's an awesome route. Great moves, good protection, perfect for a newer leader like me. I don't see the point of the belay anchor at the bottom though. Sep 19, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
Kind of getting slippery now. Jul 2, 2011
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
This was my first out door lead ever. What a classic climb! I would say it is one of the best 5.9's in BCC, and definitely worth climbing. Jun 6, 2011
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
Great 5.9 climbing! If only it were longer (like Fowl Play!). A good left arm pump. Apr 27, 2010
I love this route for a 5.9 it's a pumper great for first time leads
and an exellent warm up for the day on challange
routes were cleand well by the rain over the last two weeks
be carfull on trails very slick from run off Jun 13, 2009
Aimee Bates
  5.9
Aimee Bates  
  5.9
A great route to work on your lead head. There are good hands and feet all the way up, and very well protected. Pumpy. Apr 19, 2009
Dammann
  5.9-
Dammann  
  5.9-
What a great route !!! The bolt placements are good and the route is a great 5.9. Relax on the way up on the lead or the anchors may prove difficult to clip, my suggestions is to just grab from the last jug to above the anchors even though it is hard to tell if there are holds. The top is a large jug and the largest part is usually marked with a dab of chalk. :) Jun 2, 2008
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.9
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.9
One of the best 5.9's!! Sep 17, 2007
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
 
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
 
Nathan, that's awesome to hear. I had long suspected as much. May 31, 2006
Lead it trad, it's a solid lead. Just a bit runout at the crux. May 30, 2006
Peter Gram
Cupertino, CA
  5.9-
Peter Gram   Cupertino, CA  
  5.9-
Not a 5.9 move on this route. Pretty sustained at 5.8, however, which warrants giving the overall grade of around 5.9. Lots of fun moves with jugs the whole way. Aug 18, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.9
Lee Gitlin  
  5.9
Very consistent 5.9 climbing. There are some wobbly, fist-sized chockstones during the first three bolts. The crux is between bolts 3-4, with a small roof to pull. Mostly right-handed clipping, so keep several draws on the right side of your harness. Jun 3, 2004