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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Fred Thalman 1986
Page Views: 140 total · 1/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description


. . . and the seams aren't the only things that are falling apart.

This chossy adventure offers a nice variety of everything. If sporty mixed climbing is on your to-do list Falling Apart at the Seams is for you. While most of this route is solid, you will come across some questionable terrain, loose holds, and friable rock. Proceed with caution.

Climb about nine feet up an attached block to a big ledge. Clip your first bolt and power up for the steeper than it seems wall of big holds and edges. From the ledge run it out towards an icebox sized death block, climb around this and get a solid stance. Catch another rest then break right climbing past two bolts while aiming for the large slot - here lies the crux. Don't split your wig trying to suss out this one, get creative, hang on tight and move quick, a shallow ledge awaits tired arms. Finish here passing one more bolt on a short, steep head wall, top-out on the ledge above the crag. Rope drag can be a problem coming over the edge, its best to back up the anchor and bring up your second.

Rappel the route via webbing and slings.

Location


This route sits directly right of cTr and about 200 feet up the talas from Diminishing Returns. Look for the shallow slot, thin straight seam, and black bolts.

Protection


Bring a small light rack and one hand sized piece, slings, draws, and a pocket sized sewing kit.

Photos

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11b R
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11b R
Also bring your lead head or spare underwear for this one. Steep, runout, scary.
The anchor is a real treat and could use an update. If you don't believe in your lucky star 50' of webbing will do. Please take pictures of the existing rig before doing anything to it though... Jul 13, 2009

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