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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Lance Linscott, Kris Pietryga, Dustin Hulet, James Garrett, 19 June 2007
Page Views: 5,446 total, 43/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


119 Opinions

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Description

cTr - (Choose To Rage) This is a pretty homogeneous sport climb added to the fray about 200 feet up the hillside from Winky and Waxman Go Bolting. Start up some tricky finesse moves to the first roof and fire this to bigger more positive holds on the overhanging face to a bomber block (point of rage?). Some small bands along the way provide pleasant rests from this pumpfest. It stays in your face until the welcome reprieve at the chains.

One of new climber Dustin's first climbs outside the gym...might he become a lifer?

Although extensive route cleaning and preparation was done, this should improve with age. Until then, consider wearing a helmet and lunge/cut loose with caution.

Location

cTr is located on the west face of Challenge Buttress about 20 feet to the left (north) of Falling Apart At The Seams and up the scree field above Winky...this climb ends at the top of the cliff.

Protection

QDs for 13 bolts to the two-bolt belay chains. A belay bolt to the right on a little ledge has also been installed for added safety. Good protection.
LCC kid  
I left two black diamond quickdraws on this route this morning, if anyone would be so kind as to return them to me, I will buy you a beer or something. Please call (801)-889-7463 and leave a message if you recovered my gear. Thank you! Jun 9, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
  5.9+
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
  5.9+
It's long, with big holds. But not 3 stars. Good warm down. Oct 13, 2016
J Saarela
Park City
  5.9+
J Saarela   Park City
  5.9+
Fun jug haul! Bolts are gym-spaced and in a nice straight line. I definitely thought Chambered Nautilus on the other side of the hill was harder and more sustained, even though it's graded lower at .10a.

Lots of big ledges to rest on, and a hero jug is never more than 1 move away. Maybe if you run past all the rests it'll pump up to .10b, but if you climb conservatively it should feel soft for the grade. Aug 23, 2016
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Looking pretty clean as of June 2014. Found two loose holds, and not very loose at that. The bolting couldn't be more comforting for the nervous leader. A fantastic, fun climb. Not a single 10b move on this thing, pumpy but with solid rests, if you choose to take them. Jun 20, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10b
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10b
Fun sustained climb. Crux for me was near the top as it becomes more and more overhung. Bolted like a gym, so great for the nervous 5.10 leader. 10b felt appropriate due to the length. Felt slightly easier than BTB. Apr 28, 2014
Jordy Hanson  
 
Wow, plenty of bolts ar there for your clipping pleasure! Fun climb with mostly easy moves. Seems a touch soft for 10b...but maybe the length helps it to get the grade. May 16, 2013
cdec
SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
cdec   SLC, UT
  5.10a/b
For the grade and style one of the best in the Canyon. Has cleaned up really well. Nothing left but solid rock and good times. Sep 20, 2012
oliver
 
oliver  
 
Route seems to be in pretty good shape. Some loose rock in the opening section but other then that it was an awesome route. Jul 26, 2012
I was just at this route with my buddy Phil. I did not do the route, but he thought it was quality for the grade, thinking it to be .10a/b. We did not know what the route was, so he just racked up all the draws he had and took off on an adventure.
He had just done "Falling Apart at the Seams" (.11b, r/x) which is a dangerous route, so the "over-bolted" nature of this route was quite comforting. He thought that there were 2 or 3 bolts too many on "cTr", but if one chooses not to clip them, then skip them.
I added the "r/x" to Falling Apart at the Seams", and I elaborate on that in the comments for that route.
cTr is a terrific route, and quite long for the area. You can do it with 10 draws by back cleaning, or just skip some of the bolts if you do not have 15 draws...don't forget the two you need for the chains. We fashioned draws out of stoppers to extend the rack, and these worked well. The route is in full sun after noon in the summer, tucked in a cool grotto 200 feet above "Hollow Man". So, if the lower area is full- which is rather common- then head up the extra 5 minutes to this place. It has a terrific, flat belay, with lots of room. Hint: stay close to the cliff all the way to hike up to the area, because the talus to the right is very loose. With some rope trickery and well placed directionals, it may be possible to rig a TR on "Falling Apart at the Seams" by traversing in from the top of "cTr". This would open up two TR's for the rope-gun to set for the crew. Just beware of the weird nature of the "anchor" on "FAatS", because rope drag at the lip is a real threat if one does not extend the TR point.
"CTR", Ha, I always thought that meant "Climb the Rock" when I saw it embossed on the rings of local kids.
Jul 21, 2012
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Did this route last night and thought it was great. Didn't find any loose holds, but my partner pulled out one little piece in a crack that was coming loose. Definitely wear helmets to be safe. There are no extremely tricky parts, but it's long, consistent, and over hanging almost the whole way which made my arms pretty pumped about half way up. I had to take a couple little rests on the ledges. It didn't help that we didn't get to warm up on anything shorter since it was so crowded. Overall a great route that I want to do again. Sep 16, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9+
Feels solid this month. 4 of us climbed it with nothing loose. Be careful not to Z-clip (plenty of close bolts). Good warm up, plenty fun though nothing tricky, but --- is this really 5.10? Good for the aspiring "5.10" leader to help with confidence. Jul 2, 2011
Alan Avedovech
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
Alan Avedovech   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10b
First time on this route and it felt super solid. I wore a helmet just in case, but like a said i did not find anything to be loose at all! Well protected and would be a great lead for early 5.10 climbers! Jun 14, 2011
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.10b
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.10b
I lead this route last weekend and it felt super solid. I didn't grab any holds that felt loose. Nothing came off, and most importantly it was a blast. Great addition to the area. As for the rating, the moves feel pretty easy, but since it is sustained and LONG, I think 5.10b is about right. I love this route, and will start letting everyone know about it. Thanks for the addition! Apr 22, 2010
Belay bolt...so much safer to belay from there completely protected from all the reported rock fall. Glad it is cleaning up. I like this route alot and don't feel it to be particularly loose? Jun 23, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
The rock quality seems to increase as you make your way up this line. As long as you take a good look at what you're aiming to grab and give it a test pull before yarding on it, nothing will come off. The only loose hold I grabbed won't come out, it just rotates around (if you want to know what loose is, check out the line to the right, Falling Apart at the Seams)
Great moves on the upper clean "headwall", too bad it's not longer.

What's up with the glue-in bolt sitting in the dihedral at the right of the start? Practice? Ugly as hell! Jun 22, 2009
Texaswall
The Woodlands, TX
 
Texaswall   The Woodlands, TX
 
Been wanting to get on this for a year now and had not despite numerous outings to Challenge Buttress. Led the route on May 4 and rock quality was a big issue. I pulled a baseball sized rock off at about the 3rd bolt and threw a split-finger fastball with it away from my partner. This "hold" should in no way affect the climb. My partner, on the other hand, also led the route and pulled off what he described as one of the larger and more route-defining holds/rails around the penultimate bolt. I watched it fly through the air, bounce once and divide, and then head directly for me. I dodged it, almost falling down in the process. I really see little reason to repeat this route given the rock quality and route quality (somewhat discontinuous). May 8, 2009
Allen Sanderson
Oootah
  5.10b
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
  5.10b
I think I am going to call this Chose To Remove. Haha. I was up there over the weekend and saw another luker come off. This time though it instead of making a hold, one was removed. I saw the potential for a couple more. Jun 10, 2008
Allen Sanderson
Oootah
  5.10b
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
  5.10b
Yesterday, I pulled off two loose softball size rocks on this about 1/3 the way up. One left a nice positive sloper hold. Might be a few more lurkers on this. Helmets for climber and belayer are recommended as well as belaying out of the debris zone. Aug 3, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
I definitely like 'BTB' better (say that 4X fast 4X4) but...
this is certainly a welcome addition to the area and will be on my circuit from now on. Good idea to wear a helmet, belay off to the side, and treat most holds with caution. The route itself doesn't really have any super memorable moves (close at the second roof, and another at the top) but it sure is continuous, sorta long, steep, and huge!!!

Once a bit cleaner, I think this is the best candidate for "first .10 lead" because it is so positive and well-protected even though I agree with the .10b rating...

We need more like this! Jul 13, 2007
LML4X4
  5.10b
LML4X4  
  5.10b
Great climb with very positive holds all the way to the top. This is one of the longer sport climbs I have done in the canyon(13 bolts). I would give cTr 3 stars if you compare it to Better Than Bitter. Jun 20, 2007