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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas 1987
Page Views: 192 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Mar 31, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

A short and difficult route. Sometimes you just have to go for it.

Protection

A small TCU helps protect the opening moves. Otherwise 3 bolts to anchors

Location

The bolted route right of Winky and Waxman Go Bolting and a bit up the talus. It climbs a pillar-like chunk of quartzite.

Photos

Peter Hayes
  5.11b
Peter Hayes  
  5.11b
Spoiler Alert!...so, if you want that on-sight, then do not read on...Just remember to keep right of the protection, and the rating stays at .11b. And, this route -true to its grade- is significantly harder than "W&WGB". I headed left after the last bolt on my on-sight attempt and took a 20+ footer, yanking my little belayer off the deck. An inattentive belayer could deck a leader who flicks on the this route, especially if they lose it at the top, so choose your partner wisely! Jul 22, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.11b/c
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.11b/c
Fun climb that should be done more often. The moves are fun, and if your a wimp like me your pumped arms will make the crux just that much more fun. Jan 31, 2012
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.11b
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.11b
Yes, harder than Waxman, but no, W&W is not a 10b! But, yes W&W is soft for 11b. DR is not too bad if you know the beta. If you don't know the sequence it will be MUCH harder. My climbing partner fought at the first move. After we figured out the beta he went again and was amazed how much easier it was than he had thought.

Great reachy moves! Don't miss this climb if you are in the area. It is very consistent through the whole climb. Think of it as a bolted boulder problem. Aug 19, 2008
T_jones
Salt Lake
 
T_jones   Salt Lake
 
I definitely agree, much harder than winky and waxman. Some fun moves in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt...but be careful, the 3rd bolt is sketchy Jan 28, 2008
Nathan Fisher
  5.11d
Nathan Fisher  
  5.11d
A BD #8 or a yellow Metolius will protect the initial moves. If this route is a 5.11b then Winky and Waxman is like a 5.10b. This is considerably harder than I expected, but I wasn't climbing real well. The line seemed a bit contrived as well. Not a bad line, just not anything special. Jun 5, 2007