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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordan Douglass, Eric Stroud, and Libby Ellis, 1987
Page Views: 254 total, 3/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The topo in Ruckmans' 1998 guide shows this route climbing up the left side of the Winky and Waxman pillar then diagonalling left to a short, right-leaning, left-facing dihedral followed by a 5.10+ face section to a large horizontal break. Since Stuart did the FA as well as co-wrote the guide, a reasonable assumption is that the topo correctly shows what he climbed. However, I was told by a knowledgeable local years ago that Pins and Knickers is the left slanting thin crack system starting above the very top of the pillar, about 5 or so feet left of what is now Better than Bitter. In any event, I'll leave that mystery to others and post up the latter line, which IMO is one of the finest trad pitches of its grade in BCC.

Although the guide rates P&K as an R, the line we did is adequately protected (microcams, unavailable in 1987, may be the reason). As usual on steep quartzite, though, hanging out to place the gear can give a similar sense of unease. From the top of the Winky and Waxman pillar, finger jam up the left-leaning crack until it pinches off then pull the crux -- bona fide 11a -- into a rest of sorts, place an excellent brass nut in the back of a pod that also can take a No.3 camalot, and gain the horizontal break. Traverse a few moves right along the break, then step up and left onto the headwall and airy climbing to the belay. Feel free to snicker at those on the sissy sport routes on either side.

Location

Between the Hollow Man and Better than Bitter bolt lines; the real climbing starts above the pillar of Winky and Waxman Go Bolting. Descend from the Better than Bitter chains.

Protection

Probably can get by with one set of cams from micros to 3”, supplemented by 1 set of brass nuts. Gear belay on top.

Photos

Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
In an effort to follow the original line in the guidebook, I climbed the right slanting seam to the left of the one described here (the one that follows straight up from the corner between Hollow Man and Winky and Waxman) and this seemed right, although I would like to try the right variation too. It goes at about .11a and there is certainly a section in the middle where you have to work to get the gear just right; the large ledge below is what merits the R getting through here! After the horizontal break the upper section is amazing and airy for sure! Small offset nuts seemed key for a few placements on this route, otherwise single rack to #3. Possible to finish up and right on the arête to the Better than Bitter anchors, if those are busy you can build a natural belay back on the ledge, bring up the second, then easily walk to one of many rap anchors atop the Challenge buttress. May 29, 2015