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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman 1986
Page Views: 3,170 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

This route is on the north face and it climbs through the roof utilizing the wide crack. Angle left near the end to gain the chains on the NE corner of the arete. This route is fun and protects well. Whereas, it is steep and hard looking, it is still a 5.8 due to a lot of good hands and feet. A #4 DMM Cam protected the roof perfectly, and the rest of the route protects well in hidden cracks. Enjoy this fun, but short route.

Protection

No fixed gear.

Photos

MountainBroTroll  
  5.9
3 star roof with steep climbing, great exposure, and awesome protection, both before and after the roof. The rest of the climb is average BCC trad with questionable placements and some frail looking rock. Probably more difficult than other BCC bolted 9s in the area (e.g, mountainproject.com/v/bong-…, mountainproject.com/v/mega/…). Red TCU pre-roof, BD #4 for the roof, BD #1 after, a BD .25, and a BD .75. Someone should bolt a set of chains after the roof so you can bail early :) Sep 17, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
I remember the roof pull being airy, but great for those who want to solidify their 5.8 lead head. Probably a 5.8+, none of the moves are terribly hard but those feet are pretty small coming over the roof. Apr 24, 2015
oliver
  5.9
oliver  
  5.9
I would say that this is 5.9. Gear is great up the whole thing Jul 26, 2012
Peter Hayes
  5.8
Peter Hayes  
  5.8
Bit awkward, but the 5.8 seems fair. This will seem a lot harder for those with little crack experience. The pro I used every time was a double set of TCU's (0-3) and a #1, 2, 3 Camalot with some runners. Try the 5.9's on the "Talk Wall" or the "Aquaduct wall" for a reasonable comparison. Jul 22, 2012
flyk
5.9
flyk  
5.9
I thought the crux felt harder than 5.8. Standing up while pulling the roof didn't seem to offer many good hands. Protects well though with a #2 or #3 to keep you off the ledge below. Jul 14, 2010
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.8+
I found the pro after the roof rather tricky. So get some good pieces in the crack before the face climbing starts. May 30, 2009
Big T
West Jordon, Utah
5.9+
Big T   West Jordon, Utah
5.9+
Yeah definitely harder than hollow man, at least the overhang part is. Jun 27, 2008
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Move quick through the roof... Good protection all the way. Bring up to a #3.5 or #4 cam. Feels harder than a 5.8. Pretty Steep stuff, but lots of fun. Jun 13, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9-
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9-
I thought this was quite a bit harder than Coral Bells or Hollow Man. Unique climbing for sure.

The roof protects well with a #3 camalot if you don't have a #4. Jun 10, 2005