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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bret and Stuart Ruckman 1986
Page Views: 2,398 total, 13/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 11, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Climbs the roof on the NW corner of Challenge Buttress. Climb up to the chains and continue up the face to the top of the buttress.

Protection

It has two bolts, and that is about all I remember from this climb. Bring some gear. You can use the anchors from Flamin' Freddie.

Photos

Garrett C
SL,UT
Garrett C   SL,UT
Anyone know what the reasoning for the 2 chains hanging over the edge of the lip are for? Was that originally a different climb? Aug 13, 2013
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10d
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10d
This route is just right of Tuff Enough. Two bolts with chain over the big roof. So, not really on the NW corner of the formation, IMHO.

Note: straight up, or, just slightly left of the bolts seems to be in the hard 5.10 range, whilst the right hand variation, 3 feet to the right of the bolts, seems to be in the hard 5.11 range (both options a bit of a one trick pony move). Both variations are followed by easier vertical terrain (5.9ish) and very good gear placements up and just slightly right, followed by a step up to the ledge and the anchor atop Tuff Enough. Gear options range from small TCU's up to #2 camalots (or equivalent) with emphasis on small to mid sized pieces (say, #1 TCU to .75 camalot). Jul 3, 2009
IMHO, this should have some stars. A classic, foot-dangling roof! And yes - this is the big roof with 2 bolts right on the lip. The arete to the left is 'Broken Thumb' (aka, NE Corner) Sep 27, 2007
You can use the anchors for Flamin' Freddie. May 30, 2006
I have been corrected. Guilt Trip climbs the roof on the NW corner of Challenge Buttress. Climb up to the chains and continue up the face to the top of the buttress. May 19, 2005