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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tim Alexander
Page Views: 5,843 total, 37/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Description

Just left of Hollow Man is a big roof. This climb kind of shares the start of Flamin' Freddie, but it climbs the bolted line up over the roof. The roof can be worked with flakes and underclings.

Protection

2 anchors atop the climb and 3 draws for the face.
J Saarela
Park City
 
J Saarela   Park City
 
LOOSE BLOCK. In the roof, about the size of a loaf of bread. I marked an "x" as best I could, but didn't have any actual chalk nuggets. In the photo above titled "This is my solution to the problem," it is the big chalked-up incut block next to the climber's left hip. It's jiggling pretty noticeably, but held up when it was weighted by the first person in our group. Make sure your belayer has a helmet--when this thing goes, it won't be fun. Nov 8, 2017
Matty Coles
Salt Lake City
 
Matty Coles   Salt Lake City
 
One of the funnest, short routes i've done in a while. Loved it!

By "going right" what do you all mean?

I climbed up under the roof and went right onto the ledge and then you can basically bridge over and swing up or just jump to the top of the overhang. Felt very badass! Is this the 5.10 variation everyone is talking about or do you mean the line of overhanging jugs about 5 feet to the right of the big obvious outcrop?

Either way. It's a short, one move wonder, that is a whole lot of fun! May 5, 2017
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
Led this thing today and have to say that the crux sequence felt safer as a lead than a TR. Not that TRing it is unsafe but there is a pretty good swing if you fall on TR. Also, I don't see how this is a squeeze at all. The nine to the left is pretty separated. Maybe if there were climbers on all three routes at once but whatever, I'm glad it's there! Super fun, and just lead it. Jul 16, 2015
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.11a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.11a
TR-able by climbing out of cave and up to the right (if you cant make the V3 boulder move). Fun, but definitely can bash your shins on the rock to the right of the climb if you mess up the crux sequence. Apr 18, 2014
Kirk Hilton
Murray, UT
 
Kirk Hilton   Murray, UT
 
I led it for the first time today and stayed right. I'd have to agree with everyone that this right variation is a .10a. Can't wait to try the V3/.11a FA version. Sep 21, 2013
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.11a
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.11a
You're cheating yourself out of a super sick boulder move by going right. GO LEFT! :) Jun 20, 2013
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
  5.11b
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
  5.11b
Definitely an .11 if you take the left side over the roof. Seems hard at first but work it out and find the moves. Good .10a-ish variation if you hang right. These should almost be listed as two separate routes even though they share all 3 bolts and anchors. Jul 24, 2012
James Logan
  5.11a PG13
James Logan  
  5.11a PG13
FYI- Tim Alexander is the FA on this route. Jun 26, 2011
James Logan
  5.11a PG13
James Logan  
  5.11a PG13
Not really a route, it's more of a great problem. You definately have to committ and it's a lot of fun. Make sure your belayer is paying attention other wise you become the wrecking ball. If you fall after the roof, you can actually swing into some akward breakage that will tear up your knees/shins. However, if your belay is quick and responsive, you'll swing into the perpendicular wall just above that nasty breakage. Jun 29, 2010
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.11b
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.11b
There must be two different ways to climb this, because it is definitely a 5.11! There must be a 5.10 variation, but if you pull it how it was intended, it is a 5.11. I got beta from the dude who bolted it. It has a V3 crux. 5.10s never have that hard of moves. Well, it's hard to rate a route with a boulder problem embedded in the middle of really easy climbing.

Despite the controversy of the rating on this route, it is super fun. Apr 17, 2010
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
  5.11a
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
  5.11a
I love this route, probably my favorite at Challenge. I always lose my feet reaching out of the roof, and end up campusing the next few moves, which just feels really badass. Jan 26, 2009
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
yeah, squeezeplays aren't all that but...
i really don't have a problem with this route because of the area as a whole (and i just put another route around the corner so...)

it is definitely a squeeze job because there really isn't room for two people to climb at the same time (or three for that matter--one on FF, one on WB, and one on HM)...they would be unsafe and falling on each other or at least in eachother's way when lowering...

but...

flip flop approach, generally sport climbs with anchors, high traffic, etc.

IMO: this route doesn't cause enough interference or detract from the crag experience here... Jul 29, 2007
Tea
Tea  
Just say no to squeezeplays. Jul 29, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.11a
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.11a
^^^^^^^^^^^ we were climbing together :) May 7, 2007
Talia
SLC, UT
Talia   SLC, UT
Met the guy who put up the route the other day, his name was Tim. After watching several people attempting and failing the roof way to get to the top, myself included, he comes along and makes it look like nothing. Good moves though, memorized them so I can say I climb 11.b. :) May 7, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.11a
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.11a
We met the FA guys over here the other day. His names Tim something. Anyway, look for the tick mark for the left hand coming out of the roof. I think he said 11b or c was what he graded it. May 7, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
my take is that if you use the rock to the right (Hollow Man) at all, this route is no more than ez 5.10...

yes, however, if you tackle the roof without stemming or standing on the rock to the right, it is sig. harder...probably in that ez 5.11 range for that one sequence lunge (you can just jump though)...

but...you have to really make sure (i.e. contrive) not to step over there for the harder grade...

definitely a squeeze since you would be interfering with a climber leading Hollow Man and it seems very natural to just stand on that ledge under the roof...but oh well, fun nonetheless Oct 4, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
  5.10d
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
  5.10d
long reach but i was able to get it with ease at 5'6" with some creative foot work Nov 3, 2005
I stayed right on this route, today, and it seemed a lot easier. I would say, if you stayed right it is probably in the 5.10a range. May 3, 2005
vincent pierce
  5.11b
vincent pierce  
  5.11b
Feels like an .11b to me! That is a hard move even after you figure out the sequence. Aug 6, 2004
I talked to a friend of the FA, (didn't get his name though.) and he informed me that he rated it as a 5.11b. Also, he pointed out that if you hang right at the roof, it is 5.10'ish. To get the 5.11b rating, tackle the deepest part of the roof on the left. Enjoy. Jul 2, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.10c
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10c
I struggled with rating this climb, because it's all about pulling the roof, which is akin to a V3 boulder move. Otherwise, it's 5.8 before and 5.9 after the roof.Should you prefer to toprope, the anchors are easy to reach when you rap down from Hollow Man. Jul 1, 2004
I finally red-pointed this climb. What a cool move. You need long arms or something to make this reach. A seriously committing climb. Excellent photo opp. Lead this climb, make the committment, enjoy the finish. Jun 11, 2004