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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Fred Thalmann 1986
Page Views: 2,574 total · 15/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Flamin' Freddie is on the west side of Challenge Buttress so it gets good shade in the morning/early afternoon.

Climb up the steep opening, traversing slightly left to more dihedral climbing. Follow this up to easier ground (passing an anchor on the right). Continue up the steep face with big jugs for an exciting finish. Pro is more difficult to find in the upper parts, but opportunities are available.

Protection

Standard Rack. This route takes small to medium gear, nothing big is necessary. Two bolt anchor.

Location

To locate the line, first find Hollow Man (5.9, bolts up vertical face). Then, just left is a bolted route that pulls through a big roof. Start below this in a left-facing dihedral.

Photos

Mark Kadlec
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+ R
Mark Kadlec   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+ R
What an exciting climb! The first lead was done by avoiding the runout top section and instead going up and right with some awesome mantling moves, I'm glad we did it, but then ended up top roping and doing the upper section and there are some fantastic jugs that also make this a great pitch.

In summary...worth doing twice! Jul 2, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
I don't think this climb is R you can get quite a bit of gear all along it except for maybe the start. I usually traverse into the corner from the left and sometimes back-clean my first piece. Single set of cams to 3 camalot, nuts, and a few long slings should suffice. Aug 27, 2014
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
Fantastic climb. Interesting up through the dihedral, traverse left and gain another dihedral, and than big, hero-sized moves on buckets and ledges up to the top. This should be done more often.

Can be top roped by climbing Broken Thumb, Tuff Enough, On a Whim, Nuth'n Tuff, anything that tops out, and walking to chains. Be careful with your rope. However, it is well worth the lead. The exposed section up top is thrilling. Jul 28, 2014
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Traverse left under the roof, go up the dihedral, work straight and up finish left. Protects moderately well using small tcu's to mid-sized cams, nothing special needed. You don't "need" wires. Jun 25, 2014
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 R
Perhaps this is an inappropriate venue for questions––? Does anyone remember how much gear they were able to place? I am having trouble figuring out exactly where the climb goes and how runout it is. I'd like to give the line a try, but I'm not sure if it's just difficult gear placements and can be stitched up by a patient leader with a a rack of C3s, peanuts, and astro nuts, or if there really is very little gear and the climb is unprotected? Because, from the comments, it sounds like the climb might protect better than it appears. Jun 20, 2014
Rockwood
West Jordan
 
Rockwood   West Jordan
 
I enjoyed this climb way more than Hollow Man. The stemming start and underclings below the roof, plus the sweet view up the canyon you get looking over the top of the buttress when you pull up to the anchors...it all remind me of the reasons I love climbing. Don't pass this one up. Jun 16, 2010
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
 
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
 
This climb should see more action. It is a great climb! It actually protects very well, you just have to look a little harder for the placements and use some longer runners. Mostly small cams and nuts (RP size) only one set of nuts is necessary. Small (thin crack) placements but all are bomber. Dont let the R rating scare you away. Aug 12, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.9 PG13
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9 PG13
Not as runout as the Ruckman guide lead me to believe, but they probably didn't have the plethora of micro-cams that I did. Excellent route, magnificent exposure, and solid climbing. Go lead this one. A bit of brass up high, and nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. There are a lot of cracks and features that take gear that don't appear until you are right there. Oh and do it without clipping the anchor to Wrecking Ball that is right there. May 30, 2006
While waiting for Hollow Man to open up, we set up a toprope on this climb since we didn't have any trad gear, and we weren't up to the R rating. If I were to trad climb this route I'd bring a double set of micro nuts. May 20, 2006

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