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Routes in North and West Faces

Better than Bitter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Thumb T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diminishing Returns T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Falling Apart at the Seams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flamin' Freddie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guilt Trip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hollow Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthin' Tuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
On a Whim T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pins and Knickers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Split Seam T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tuff Enough T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tuff'n Up S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wrecking Ball S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
cTr S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Scott Keller, Jake Anderegg 1992
Page Views: 303 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

On the NE corner of Challenge Buttress, what I used to think was Guilt Trip is this route. It does protect well, and requires a good throw, or some excellent footwork to work the lip. The face above eases considerably after the steepness.

Climbs the steep line just left of Tough Enough.

Protection

2 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor at the top. Before the 1st bolt, you can protect in horizontal cracks, with cams #2 or less. Bring runners.

Photos

BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
 
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
 
Revisited this lat night. Tricky gear when you get up over the roof. TCU's saved this old mans ass. Oct 13, 2016
Yeah, we called this "5.9+" on the FA. Definitely not .10d. Glad folks are enjoying the roof! Jun 18, 2016
Peter Hayes
  5.10a/b
Peter Hayes  
  5.10a/b
To get a better feel for the rating I suggest, head over to the "S-Curves" and get on "City Slave", which is .10d...you'll feel the difference. Jul 22, 2012
Peter Hayes
  5.10a/b
Peter Hayes  
  5.10a/b
This is a terrific route! However, the .10d rating is not warrented. I did the route back in '94 not knowing what it was and thought it to be in the .10a/b range. In comparison, "Better Than Bitter" is definitely harder.
The pro I placed every time I did the route, in order, was: .5 Camalot w/ runner (mandatory & placed in the vertical crack at the start of the difficulties after the short scramble from the base), pink (.5) Tricam w/draw, 2 bolts, then two draws for the top chains.
The moves are wild, solid and committing, especially pulling the roof, which is a splendid jug haul. This is a really good route, and when considering the .10- rating, and the "easy to access from the top to set a TR", it opens up one more possibility when the crag is crowded.
I give this 3 stars, and should not be missed by any accomplished 5.10 trad leader, because it packs a full effect in its short length. Just remember: It's not .10d! Jul 22, 2012
This was put up by Scott Keller and Jake Anderegg (1992-ish?). Hand-drilled quartzite. I think we named it "Broken Thumb" because I whacked my thumb REALLY hard while hammering - wasn't pretty. Sep 27, 2007