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Routes in Lonely Challenge Area

Broken Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eddy of Life T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eternal Flow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gnawing on the Rind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lone Man Running T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Notch Arête, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Potato Chip, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubbing it Raw S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slab, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Watermelon Tetris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zen and the Art T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Description

The east-facing Lonely Challenge Area sits near the top of the Standard Ridge area, easily seen as the smooth, high, and left facing wall when standing near the start of Stairs Gulch. A tight gully with full shade in the afternoon provides a comfortable hang. A nice escape from the crowds at the Challenge Buttress, with a selection of unique and long routes. After reaching the tall expanse of dark quartzite, one will encounter a handful of stunning routes, including a comfy sport warm up, a striking two pitch bolted face, old school classics with widely spaced gear, and a desperately smooth test piece.

Getting There

Make your way toward the west face of Challenge Buttress. If you are uninspired by the broken and short chalk-slobbered wall, head up the gully for the smooth beautiful face perched high above.

From Hollow Man, go up the main loose talus slope staying RIGHT in the larger and more consolidated talus, AVOIDING obvious worn switchbacks in the middle (slippery and sketchy scree). About halfway up the slope, at the gap between Strone Crag and Standard Ridge, there is a large pine that you can go around on its right. Switchbacks marked with cairns and logs start here and continue up to the wall. You'll pass a lone 2-bolt route. Don't stop, you're almost there! Another 100' and you’ll find the bolted lines on the lower wall: Watermelon Tetris, Broken Dreams, and Eternal Flow. Further up the gully is a huge chockstone that protects the access to the upper wall with Lone Man Running plus Zen and the Art. 20 minutes.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lonely Challenge Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Not to hammer on Spencer (well, maybe), he does paint a much dire picture of the approach than is warranted. About a third of the approach is on good trail now, and pieces of trail are developing elsewhere (do your part). Because of the setting of this area -- high and subject to wind, with usually running water near the chockstone protecting access to Zen and Lone Man -- it is one of the cooler places to climb on a mid-summer afternoon in lower BCC. Worth the walk, in my view. Jul 9, 2017
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
Approach is not that bad, takes about 20 minutes to get to the routes prior to the chockstone, and maybe another 5 to scramble up to the others. For the main talus slope stay RIGHT in the larger and more consolidated talus, AVOIDING obvious worn switchbacks in the middle (slippery and sketchy scree). About halfway up the slope there is a large pine that you can go around on the right. Switchbacks marked with cairns and logs start here and continue up to the wall. Belays are fine for the lower routes, and above the chockstone is still manageable.

Many other popular approaches feel worse than this one, its over quick and the rock is great! I've done it in 10 minutes to Eternal Flow once dialed in. Jul 22, 2016
I think its called 'Lonely' for a reason. Aug 30, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
I'm surprised to see this comment from Spencer.
From your comments on here it seems like you've been getting after it with a general disregard for stars/ratings/etc and plain crushing wherever you go.
The approach blows dongs for sure but the climbing certainly beats the pile. I'd probably go in from Standard Ridge if I went back up there.

EDIT: some serious work went into the approach. It still blows dongs but is a bit more tolerable. Went up there in flip flops after forgetting my approach shoes and I didn't die. Aug 30, 2012
zoso  
You can do worse.

It's not THAT bad. Aug 30, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Here is the deal on the approach: After casually walking from your car on nice worn dirt trail to the hollow man area, proceed to roll your ankle 20 times as you thrutch and fall your way up the talus jungle. Once you've done this for about 200 yards at a steep angle, enter the gully where thick bushes, wet moss, and more talus await you. Lieback the wet chockstone crack with your slick muddy shoes on smooth quarzite with death rocks below you, then mantle onto the top where, you guessed it, more loose talus awaits you. Then find a comfy belay spot among the amazon rainforest of thistles that are growing out horizontally from the 50 degree sloping loose dirt gully below the climb. Enjoy the climbing, then get excited to either rap the small insecure tree or downclimb the wet chimney! Note: you will kill someone if you don't have a helmet.

Moral of the story: a year from now, when thinking about this experience, the only thing you won't remember is the quality climbing. Aug 30, 2012

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