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Routes in The Penguin

Emperor's March, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penguin, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totally Gilligan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

The Penguin is a pinnacle with an ugly approach. There are also climbs on the opposing main wall (Tear Garden). The pinnacle itself is short, with slings for the anchors. Click here: Tear Garden to see the other route options at the area as they are basically the same crag.

Getting There

Park 3.8 miles up canyon on the right side of the road. Hike up the north side of the road; hiking up talus slopes until they end, and then crossing through small patches of scrub oak until the next talus field is acquired. There are cairns, so look for them. The approach is hard and hot, but do-able. My wife, 5-yr old son, baby in a backpack, and myself have done it twice, so pump it out. Once there clamber up onto the ledge and go between the pinnacle and the wall for a nice cool area to recuperate.

3 Total Climbs

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Photos

Really cool formation--not many folks have stood on top of this, I reckon. Admins: consider merging the Penguin routes with those on Tear Garden. Given the healthy approach, no one is just going to climb the Penguin, and the Penguin is essentially part of the same crag, connected at the base. Aug 2, 2015

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