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Routes in The Penguin

Emperor's March, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penguin, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totally Gilligan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Pat Contor, '87
Page Views: 162 total, 2/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Mar 26, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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A short face climb on the west face of The Penguin starting in the gully between the pinnacle and the Tear Garden wall. An optional hand sized cam could be placed getting up to the first bolt.


The obvious bolted line, facing the Tear Garden wall.


An optional hand sized piece, one bolt, one pin, and one more bolt. The anchor consists of slings (some old and some new) around the summit block.


John Steiger
  5.10b R
John Steiger  
  5.10b R
BD, both are rusted quarter-inch buttonheads, first with about 1/4" of shaft showing when looking down on it (I suspect the rock fractured when it was pounded in, but it may be from a fall) and the second with an equally rusted homemade (or early Leeper?) hanger. Aug 3, 2015
I've not been up there. What is bad about the bolts? Aug 2, 2015
John Steiger
  5.10b R
John Steiger  
  5.10b R
Bolts (and fixed blade) still horrendous. I could figure out a way to back-up the pin (nut to right, small cam in pod to left) and last bolt (microcam to right), but not the first bolt – which is by far the worst. Don’'t fall on that bolt, or you'’re spinning the chamber. Good climbing though. Aug 2, 2015