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Routes in The Penguin

Emperor's March, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Penguin, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totally Gilligan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: G. Kirchhoff, A. Mollard, May 2013
Page Views: 182 total · 4/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Sep 14, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Every year Emperor penguins overcome great obstacles in order to return to their breeding grounds. The march of the penguins is an arduous, dangerous, and difficult battle to maintain survival and continue life. While this route does not end at a penguin brothel, lets hope the trip to the top is nowhere near as similar?

A deceptive route that climbs The Penguin's proud east-face. Steeper than it looks, this line follows the dead-center path of least resistance. Described as "difficult to read", curiosity will be most beneficial, as will balance and fitness. Expect steep face climbing with hidden pockets and edges.

Start in the obvious wide crack and climb to a shallow ledge, clip a bolt and prepare for the funk. Lean left of the right-side arete and mantle a sloping shelf. Continue dead-center up the face following the bolt line. Plenty of holds exist, but finding them seems to be the crux.


Found on the direct, east face of The Penguin. This is the only line w/ black bolts.


Quick draws to a sling anchor. Optional #5 Camalot for the crack at the start.


John Steiger
John Steiger  
Worth doing, and could rise to multiple stars with some aggressive cleaning, and maybe another bolt to start (who carries a 5" cam in BCC?). I might have cheated though, cuz I certainly didn'’t stay directly in the bolt line after standing on the sloping shelf; still hard. Aug 2, 2015

who doesn't carry a 5" cam in BCC...?

i don't expect many will bring a #5 up there for the start,
i do expect people will complain about it.
i won't bolt any crack that can be protected that well with a cam.

clean and solid climbing straight up the middle. Aug 2, 2015

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