Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Scott Melcer, Tony Calderone: 2018
Page Views: 2,919 total · 337/month
Shared By: Scott Melcer on Jun 3, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This superb route climbs the beautiful and clean arete between First East Face and Inside Corner, and 30–50 feet to the left of the Outside Corner. The name is appropriately descriptive...a progressive increase of intensity for both difficulty and quality.

DO NOT RAPPEL THIS ROUTE. (see Descent info below).

FOLLOW THE APPROACH to preserve it from erosion. The approach hugs the wall (via a hand line), and climbs on TOP of the dead tree trunk and NOT around it's left side.

4 pitches at 30M or less each, with 2 bolt anchors at all belay stations.
Mostly bolted mixed route + natural pro (small rack of small and medium cams):
Pitch 1: 5.6, 100 ft., 9 bolts
Pitch 2: 5.7, 80 ft., 6 bolts + pro
Pitch 3: 5.8, 70 ft., 3 bolts + pro (Pitches 3 & 4 can be linked, and the 3rd belay is hidden in a corner to the right)
Pitch 4: 5.9, 50 ft., 5 bolts + pro (Two options off the belay ledge: left is a bolt protected face; right is a fun dihedral. If doing the dihedral, a 3 inch cam right off the belay protects an easy move)
Pitches 1 and 2, as well as 3 and 4, can be linked, but need to be guarded against rope drag at the anchors.

Wandering off route to the left will find loose rock stacked on ledges.

Descent: Walking off from the top is much quicker, safer, easier, and you don't hold up parties below by using the 2nd class trail that is the same as the Outside Corner.  Rappelling the route is problematic, with a potential for rock fall from rope pull, and also ending up in the brush and rock filled gully. Although the anchors are equipped with chains, they are intended for a retreat bail only.

From the top, hike due west to the same trail as the Outside Corner that leads down to the shale layer which is above (west of) the "Remnants..." parking area. Continue past the usual (and nasty) 4th class descent (above the pullout) for several hundred feet to an easy 2nd class trail adjacent to where the road overpasses the creek. The start of this last part is not obvious from above, look for a small cairn. Best to scout this from the north end of the parking pullout before heading to the climb.

Location

There is no place to relieve your bodily functions at the base of the route. Please take care of your business before you arrive at the trailhead/parking lot, at one of the picnic site restrooms in the area!

Approach: Park at the "Remnants of an Ancient Sea" pullout, hike southeast up the trail through the shale and angle left toward the obvious corner. This is the same approach as for the Outside Corner, but continue past it uphill around the corner staying against the wall, and use the aid rope through and on top of the big dead tree trunk (not around it, to avoid damaging the trail), then follow the steps against the wall to a built belay pad at the base of the arete.

Protection

Mostly bolted mixed route, with a rack of a dozen or so cams to 3 inches, and perhaps a few 12 or 24 inch runners. 2 bolt anchors with chains at all belay stations. Single 60M rope.

Photos