Weed B Gone
Avg: 3.3 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||James Garrett, Brian Smoot|
|Page Views:||4,337 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||tenesmus on Sep 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis is a fantastic way to the top of the JHCOB wall and a natural extension to Weedkiller. If you love pulling roofs you'll get 16 of them if you do both routes.
First: Climb Weedkiller.
Second: The first pitch of Weed Be Gone is short(I'm guessing 50-80') and has nice slab boulder problems interspersed with broken, somewhat chossy rock. There is a 3 bolt anchor and two of the bolts are rap bolts. Be sure to stop there and not push on and up to the big roof at the top of the formation.
Third: The second pitch of Weed Be Gone starts from those anchors and follows bolts and a little gear leading up to a large roof split by a fist crack and face holds. Then move up to a medium roof and then to a smallish roof with each feeling a little harder and around .10d to .11a depending on the holds you find. Keep going and head for the two or three bolts on the face to the left of the huge roof/alcove leading up to the final roof. Its hard to see the bolts on this face and you have to choose to enter the face from the left (a little harder) or the right from that alcove. You'll be feeling the accumulation of what you've done as you pull this roof which is the crux of the climb.
I may be off on the rating - it actually feels like a v2 or v3 boulder problem that happens to be at the top of three other pitches and 15 other roofs. For what its worth.
This is definitely a roadside outing but it feels far wilder and more exposed than your average BCC route. Also, please remember that you can easily aid through that crux move with a couple of long slings on the bolts making it a super fun .11a-ish outing.