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Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Garrett, Brian Smoot
Page Views: 4,289 total, 32/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 17, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fantastic way to the top of the JHCOB wall and a natural extension to Weedkiller. If you love pulling roofs you'll get 16 of them if you do both routes.

First: Climb Weedkiller.

Second: The first pitch of Weed Be Gone is short(I'm guessing 50-80') and has nice slab boulder problems interspersed with broken, somewhat chossy rock. There is a 3 bolt anchor and two of the bolts are rap bolts. Be sure to stop there and not push on and up to the big roof at the top of the formation.

Third: The second pitch of Weed Be Gone starts from those anchors and follows bolts and a little gear leading up to a large roof split by a fist crack and face holds. Then move up to a medium roof and then to a smallish roof with each feeling a little harder and around .10d to .11a depending on the holds you find. Keep going and head for the two or three bolts on the face to the left of the huge roof/alcove leading up to the final roof. Its hard to see the bolts on this face and you have to choose to enter the face from the left (a little harder) or the right from that alcove. You'll be feeling the accumulation of what you've done as you pull this roof which is the crux of the climb.

I may be off on the rating - it actually feels like a v2 or v3 boulder problem that happens to be at the top of three other pitches and 15 other roofs. For what its worth.

This is definitely a roadside outing but it feels far wilder and more exposed than your average BCC route. Also, please remember that you can easily aid through that crux move with a couple of long slings on the bolts making it a super fun .11a-ish outing.

Location

Directly above Weedkiller.

Protection

Lots of draws - I think I brought 16 or more - heavy on the long runners. Medium cams (with an extra set .75 down to orange metolius) and nuts, at times back cleaning a piece before a bolt. I don't think I used anything bigger than a #1 camalot when I used the bolts. The first time I did this I shunned a lot of the bolts and used a standard rack up to #3 camalot with double's from blue TCU to .75 camalot. You can do this for all of the lower roofs but it makes for loads more rope drag - hence the way they put it up. A 60 meter rope is supposed to allow you to rap back to the mid anchors of the route and then again to the top of Weedkiller and back to the ground. However, one party reports a 60 reaching to the bolt just above the midway anchors so just bring a 70.
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11d
The first pitch of weed be gone is a chossy mess, be careful what you grab. I have done this route several times. I noticed a hold broke off on the first roof. It makes it a little harder and in my opinion is the actual crux. There are two ways to do this roof, directly up the bolt line(harder but more straightforward) or in the crack(easier but awkward). The first way is the most fun and checks out at as a V3 boulder problem. BETA after the piton on the second pitch (don't clip it, it is wiggling out) place a .75 Camelot and fire up into a massive dihedral. As soon as you enter the dihedral reach out left there is a hidden bolt on the face, continue up the dihedral and eventually traverse left onto the face under the final roof crux. I believe there are 11 bolts(plus the aforementioned piton) and the only supplemental gear I use on weed be gone is a black metolious cam(.75 Camelot), some may want more. If you are clipping rusty old stuff you are off route. For weed killer a single rack up to a 1 Camelot with small nuts ought to do it, if you want it really well protected bring extra tcus. Superfun! If done with weed killer it is the best 5.11 multipitch in the wasatch( that I have done) Nov 9, 2014
Kurt Howes
  5.11d
Kurt Howes  
  5.11d
Good fun for sure. The anchors are not redundant for rapping as you're on a single quicklink. At one station your life depends on a single chain link, and the chain isn't very thick. Whoever set these anchors, or changed them subsequently, should remember that redundancy is tantamount to saving your life and quicklinks are cheap. Jun 11, 2014
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.11c
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.11c
Single rack from blue tcu to #1 camalot, a few stoppers in the small (but not tiny) to mid range, 12(ish) draws, and a 70m cord. This'll get you up/down weed killer and weed be gone comfortably. Sep 18, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
On the final pitch, I totally ended up in the huge alcove with the two old bolts with the rusted nut wire hangers, completely at a loss as to where I was and where I was supposed to go. So just a heads up, look way around left instead of going up through the roof with an old rusted piton in it to access the other bolts that lead to the top. We were able to easily reach the top via climbing out left of the huge alcove but it isn't obvious if you don't know where the route goes. Fun route, with the crux coming at the very last 10 feet. May 31, 2012
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
 
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
 
Can someone shed some light on where the On the Rocks Variation is compared to the Weed be Gone line? thanks May 7, 2012
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
fyi-The top rap left us about 6 feet short of the next set of anchors with a 60m. Aug 8, 2011
I climbed this route again for the fifth or sixth time. I guess I like it a lot. I noticed that a few new bolts have been added. They were probably not totally necesary but the bottomline is they give a new sense of confidence before you go for the crux moves, particularly on pitch three. I will be the last to complaint about this; nice job, whoever did it. I am still struggling to decide on the grade but height seems to be a factor on pitch three. Sometimes the crux at the top of pitch three feels like a 11c, sometimes harder, but 11c-11d seems fair.

James Garret just told me he is not aware of any new bolts. He said he will check it up when possible. Maybe he is right and I donĀ“t know what I am talking about. Stay tuned! Sep 3, 2009
tenesmus  
 
Yes, I had tenesmus just yesterday and had to take my harness off twice... The change is made. You are right on all accounts about where to belay and why. I only left that stuff in there because the first and second times I climbed it that's where I thought you were supposed to belay. It felt natural to go as far as I could from the top of weedkiller because I knew nothing of the line and wanted to stretch it out as far as I could. Which, of course is wrong and I was hoping the description would let people know why. Sort of my way of saying that last pitch is far better the way you set it up and here's why. Nov 17, 2007
Clay,
Have you been suffering from Tenesmus lately? Dude, you know this climb better than I do, but maybe you might consider rewriting your last paragraph where you talk about belaying in the alcove at the two bolt slung nuts versus climbing right through past the anchors on pitch #2 (Pitch #1 of WeedBgone)and then you mention "mid anchors".... If I didn't already know the route, I'd be confused, I think....and it's not just the Alpenheimers....which I do incidentally, suffer from, severely.
When I think about it, why would anyone pass by the 3bolt belay and head into the big roofs?
The drag would be horrendous. And furthermore, why would someone need 2 "4 Camalots for the alcove belay? If people want to belay there, it would be lighter to just use the bolts or put some hangers back on them. I have never belayed there (except with Smoot), but if you think it is a valid optional belay, the bolts should be left and that should be mentioned. We felt different about the alcove belay. Brian felt at the time (maybe he still does) that the route should have gone up and right from that alcove to the top. But I thought (and I still do) that going thru the alcove and exiting off up that way decreased the purity of the line and (even though staying on the arete climbing directly is the part I can't personally free....it's no biggie to yank on a draw in that spot for us gumbies) more importantly, the rock deteriorates there above in that crack out right above the alcove...it's the worst climbing on the route and deviates to the right. It also thirdly, breaks up the long awesome final pitch to the summit.
Anyway, just some thoughts. Thanks for the great route write-up!
James Nov 17, 2007
tenesmus  
 
I just did this again and its a lot easier than I thought - probably only .11c if you're over 6' tall and slightly harder if you aren't. It'd be great to confirm that grade - I just rated it what it felt like for this page so who knows if its right. Easily aid-able one move with the rest at .10d or .11a. Also, its really cleaned up a lot with far less loose rock on it than last year. Sep 11, 2007
tenesmus  
 
This is actually a different line than the "on the rocks variation". The topo for this wall is out of scale and these lines are independent. After the first time I did it I was driving myself crazy trying to figure out which was what (due to the difficulty of drawing any topo - I can't imagine how they got as much right as they did). That's funny that you went into it thinking it'd be .10d. Easily aidable with a long runner if someone wanted to though. Feb 9, 2007
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
 
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
 
I thought this route felt harder than 5.10d! I think the Ruckman guide lists it as "On the Rocks Variation" (5.10d). Also it gives it no stars. Disregard the book; it is really fun and worthwile. Feb 6, 2007
This route was great fun. The last and definitely the hardest pitch is airy and strenuous, especially for those a bit more vertically challenged. A must do. Oct 16, 2006