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Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Isis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Standard Deviation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Whiplash S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Mixed, Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brett Ruckman, Gary Olsen, Mike Ruth, Peter Carse, James Garret 1983
Page Views: 876 total · 27/month
Shared By: thehackattacks on Feb 5, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Emulating the Scottish style, this route is the uber-classic mixed route of BBC! ALL GUTS- ALL GLORY!

P1- (100 ft) If it's in, climb the 15/20 foot ice pillar to gain the gully proper. (If the ice isn't connecting the bottom, a pin is rumored to aid in the opening mixed moves.) From there, move up mixed ice and rock to a shelf. There is a slung block on the right but its best to build a belay on the left side of the gully so you can see your partner.

P2- (130 ft) Follow the gully up increasingly tricky mixed climbing until you reach a dead end. Here a steep rock face goes up and right. Dry tool up this to gain a good stance at a large juniper tree with an anchor/rap set-up.

P3- (70 ft) Continue straight up the heady face (protection is a challenge), until you reach a snowy, low-angled slope that leads to a 90 degree corner. Climb this unlikely corner (though seemingly blank, there are tool placements on the left-hand wall) until you pull over the top. An easier variation is going right from the slung juniper and working one's way up friendlier terrain until you reach the corner.


About two hundred feet to the west of 'Outside Corner'. Park at the "Remnants of an Ancient Sea" sign hike up a few hundred feet from the road.


Some ice screws, a full set of cams from .3- #3, along with a set of TCUs or C3s. You'll appreciate the little stuff! I placed more cams than screws. And plenty of runners!


More About The Scottish Gully