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Routes in JHCOB Wall
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Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4 |
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Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Mixed, Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Brett Ruckman, Gary Olsen, Mike Ruth, Peter Carse, James Garret 1983 |
| Page Views: | 793 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | thehackattacks on Feb 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Description
Emulating the Scottish style, this route is the uber-classic mixed route of BBC! ALL GUTS- ALL GLORY!
P1- (100 ft) If it's in, climb the 15/20 foot ice pillar to gain the gully proper. (If the ice isn't connecting the bottom, a pin is rumored to aid in the opening mixed moves.) From there, move up mixed ice and rock to a shelf. There is a slung block on the right but its best to build a belay on the left side of the gully so you can see your partner.
P2- (130 ft) Follow the gully up increasingly tricky mixed climbing until you reach a dead end. Here a steep rock face goes up and right. Dry tool up this to gain a good stance at a large juniper tree with an anchor/rap set-up.
P3- (70 ft) Continue straight up the heady face (protection is a challenge), until you reach a snowy, low-angled slope that leads to a 90 degree corner. Climb this unlikely corner (though seemingly blank, there are tool placements on the left-hand wall) until you pull over the top. An easier variation is going right from the slung juniper and working one's way up friendlier terrain until you reach the corner.
P1- (100 ft) If it's in, climb the 15/20 foot ice pillar to gain the gully proper. (If the ice isn't connecting the bottom, a pin is rumored to aid in the opening mixed moves.) From there, move up mixed ice and rock to a shelf. There is a slung block on the right but its best to build a belay on the left side of the gully so you can see your partner.
P2- (130 ft) Follow the gully up increasingly tricky mixed climbing until you reach a dead end. Here a steep rock face goes up and right. Dry tool up this to gain a good stance at a large juniper tree with an anchor/rap set-up.
P3- (70 ft) Continue straight up the heady face (protection is a challenge), until you reach a snowy, low-angled slope that leads to a 90 degree corner. Climb this unlikely corner (though seemingly blank, there are tool placements on the left-hand wall) until you pull over the top. An easier variation is going right from the slung juniper and working one's way up friendlier terrain until you reach the corner.
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