The Scottish Gully
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in JHCOB Wall
|Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4|
|Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Mixed, Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Brett Ruckman, Gary Olsen, Mike Ruth, Peter Carse, James Garret 1983|
|Page Views:||714 total, 32/month|
|Shared By:||thehackattacks on Feb 5, 2016|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionEmulating the Scottish style, this route is the uber-classic mixed route of BBC! ALL GUTS- ALL GLORY!
P1- (100 ft) If it's in, climb the 15/20 foot ice pillar to gain the gully proper. (If the ice isn't connecting the bottom, a pin is rumored to aid in the opening mixed moves.) From there, move up mixed ice and rock to a shelf. There is a slung block on the right but its best to build a belay on the left side of the gully so you can see your partner.
P2- (130 ft) Follow the gully up increasingly tricky mixed climbing until you reach a dead end. Here a steep rock face goes up and right. Dry tool up this to gain a good stance at a large juniper tree with an anchor/rap set-up.
P3- (70 ft) Continue straight up the heady face (protection is a challenge), until you reach a snowy, low-angled slope that leads to a 90 degree corner. Climb this unlikely corner (though seemingly blank, there are tool placements on the left-hand wall) until you pull over the top. An easier variation is going right from the slung juniper and working one's way up friendlier terrain until you reach the corner.