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Routes in JHCOB Wall
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Abydos S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Crescendo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dust to Dust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Footstool, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lightning Bad T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pedestal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Predecessor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prima Vista Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scottish Gully, The WI3 M4 |
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Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Standard Deviation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Whiplash S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Mixed, Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.62108, -111.74946 |
| FA: | Brett Ruckman, Gary Olsen, Mike Ruth, Peter Carse, James Garret 1983 |
| Page Views: | 3,304 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | thehackattack on Feb 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
Emulating the Scottish style, this route is the uber-classic mixed route of BBC! ALL GUTS- ALL GLORY!
P1- (100 ft) If it's in, climb the 15/20 foot ice pillar to gain the gully proper. (If the ice isn't connecting the bottom, a pin is rumored to aid in the opening mixed moves.) From there, move up mixed ice and rock to a shelf. There is a slung block on the right but its best to build a belay on the left side of the gully so you can see your partner.
P2- (130 ft) Follow the gully up increasingly tricky mixed climbing until you reach a dead end. Here a steep rock face goes up and right. Dry tool up this to gain a good stance at a large juniper tree with an anchor/rap set-up.
P3- (70 ft) Continue straight up the heady face (protection is a challenge), until you reach a snowy, low-angled slope that leads to a 90 degree corner. Climb this unlikely corner (though seemingly blank, there are tool placements on the left-hand wall) until you pull over the top. An easier variation is going right from the slung juniper and working one's way up friendlier terrain until you reach the corner.
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