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Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Andy Ross, Scott Carson and Paul Ross, 1996
Page Views: 4,054 total, 30/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Boy, am I glad I decided to try this out today. I haven't had this much fun on a single route all year! Surprising free from vegetation, as the name implies (unlike Ream's Chimney next door) with occasional choss. Easy slab and face climbing leads to roof after roof after roof (I think there were six, but honestly, I lost count). Granted, there is plenty of exposure throughout the route. There are ample rest opportunities, except when the roofs are so close together that there isn't much of a rest stance. The crux greets you after such a stance, with big pulls over a roof on crimpy slopers, a committing sequence that left my arms tingling. I couldn't resist a moment of celebration and a resounding yelp of delight once I reached the stance above. The Ruckman guide gives this route 5.11a, but I didn't think that the crux was harder than 5.10c/d. All of the other roof sequences were 5.9-5.10a and the slab/face climbing ranged from 5.7-5.10b. Maybe it deserves the 5.11a for a combination of length, multiple cruxes, technicality, and the amount of time it takes on lead (I took about an hour). Not to be missed, this route is one I'll be returning to often.

Location

Start just to the right (West) of Straight Up and to the left (East) of Deep Dark Crack. This is the route that climbs through all of the roofs. Rappel off of the anchors with a 60 meter rope (or two ropes) to the top of the gully to the West. It is 100', so you may want to tie knots in the ends of your rope. A short hike (60') gets you back to the start.

Protection

6 bolts and small gear. First bolt is 30 feet off the deck, second is another 30 feet. The bolts around the finish are not as widely spaced, but there is a gap between bolts at the crux, so make sure to bring gear. I'm glad that I took a bunch of nuts, they were very handy. I didn't use anything larger than a black Metolius. Helmets are advisable for those who bump their heads on roofs. Two chains and a glue-in for anchors.

Photos

K Blase
Salt Lake City, UT
 
K Blase   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Four stars if combined with weed b gone. Together this is hands down my favorite route in BCC. Very unique and enjoyable climbing. You would be crazy not to do the next 2 pitches. May 24, 2017
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11a
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11a
Sweetness, Roofs on Roofs. I belayed my second up and then simul climb up and left and finished on Outside Corner... didn't realize there was a second pitch till after! Aug 22, 2013
Danny Parker
Sandy Utah
Danny Parker   Sandy Utah
climbed this 11/20/2012, slabs were fun and easy and the entire route ate up stoppers to supplement the run out bolting, then to the crux which is very well protected with two close bolts. single 70m rope rap off west puts you on the ground. get out and do it Nov 22, 2012
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
Lots of fun! Super runout and nowhere to put gear between first and second bolt though! Jul 20, 2012
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
I missed the nut my first go, sure was exciting! May 12, 2011
try it in august in full sun but yeah its around mid 10ish. Nov 11, 2008
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.11-
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.11-
Is this really an 11a??? I thought that it might be that the crux is at the top and you will get pumped by time you get there. But the slabby sections between are really easy and didn't pump me or my climbing partner at all. Maybe I'm getting better? Good climb. Great for practicing on runout/placing gear. Next time I come back to this one it will be with the intent of finishing out on weed be gone... Aug 6, 2008
Be careful rapping from the third pitch of weed killer, a 60m rope leaves you about four feet short of the 2nd belay bolts. I had to hang from the rope with one hand to clip the belay bolts scarry and dangerous. There is a bolt about 5 feet up that you can clip and do a mini rap to the 2nd belay but that is pretty funky. 70 meter rope is advised. 60M rope is OK if only doing the first and/or second pitch Cheers Oct 15, 2006
tenesmus  
 
This should get done more often. One of my favorite climbs that has surprisingly turned a few hardman sport climbers away empty handed (and its a face climb). One dark, dark morning a few octobers ago I was in the crux of this thing and "learned" that your climbing helmet has little hooks to hold your headlamp on. dork.

When you stand at those anchors and look up at all of those roofs up above you just go for it and do Weed Be Gone. Don't let the crappy short pitch just above Weedkiller deter you because the roofs above are really fun.

Oh - and a 60m rope actually does work just fine if you're just doing this pitch. It just puts you about 30 feet to the right of your packs at the start of the climb. Sep 17, 2006
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
What a sweet route! Roof after roof... Bring a good rack to supplement the bolt spacing for sure. The climbing is 5.9ish up until the crux...Then pop a good nut in and go for it. Sep 17, 2006