First East Face
Avg: 1.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||232 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||grk10vq on Jul 25, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThe First East Face is a good route with a great view and decent exposure. Although highly vegetated, the First East Face follows a relatively clean line between a majority of the brush. This line makes for a nice outing climbing a staggered, broken crack system separated by alert face climbing. Watch for loose rock.
Approach- From the parking lot locate a weakness over the talus heading towards the JHCOB wall. Follow this for 200 feet to the base of the formation. Head for the North/East corner, from here continue up over dirt and loose rock to a small alcove just South/East of the Outside Corner.
p1- Begin at the wide crack that separates the shale from the quartzite. Scramble and climb up the wide break over loose and dirty rock to a resting ledge set in a small cove. Build a belay here using a small varied crack system. (65 feet)
p2(a)- Climb straight up from the belay about 10 feet and follow some horizontal cracks and seams aiming right towards the arete. At the corner, join up with a nice splitter finger/hand crack and follow this for about 15 feet to its end. Finish out the short remaining face and build a belay just below a large dirty ledge. (60 feet)
p2(b)- Climb straight up from the belay about 10 feet and follow the horizontal cracks coming shy of the arete by about 15 feet. Climb a rather wide and heavily vegetated crack for 20 feet, break right towards a belay below a large dirty ledge. (60 feet)
p3- Continue up and traverse left to gain a good, short splitter, climb this to its end keeping right of a large tree and head towards another short and slightly hidden crack. Climb this crack, get onto a face and hit another obvious crack. Run this up and left until coming just short of the top. Finish left at a tree and horizontal crack system. build belay. (80 feet)
Descent- From the final belay, scramble left of the belay and around the corner of the face to an obvious path that reaches the summit. Walk off to the West on a heavily traveled trail towards the shale layer. Scramble down the final gully ending at the geological sign parking lot.