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Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 243 total · 2/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Edit]

The First East Face is a good route with a great view and decent exposure. Although highly vegetated, the First East Face follows a relatively clean line between a majority of the brush. This line makes for a nice outing climbing a staggered, broken crack system separated by alert face climbing. Watch for loose rock.

Approach- From the parking lot locate a weakness over the talus heading towards the JHCOB wall. Follow this for 200 feet to the base of the formation. Head for the North/East corner, from here continue up over dirt and loose rock to a small alcove just South/East of the Outside Corner.

p1- Begin at the wide crack that separates the shale from the quartzite. Scramble and climb up the wide break over loose and dirty rock to a resting ledge set in a small cove. Build a belay here using a small varied crack system. (65 feet)

p2(a)- Climb straight up from the belay about 10 feet and follow some horizontal cracks and seams aiming right towards the arete. At the corner, join up with a nice splitter finger/hand crack and follow this for about 15 feet to its end. Finish out the short remaining face and build a belay just below a large dirty ledge. (60 feet)

p2(b)- Climb straight up from the belay about 10 feet and follow the horizontal cracks coming shy of the arete by about 15 feet. Climb a rather wide and heavily vegetated crack for 20 feet, break right towards a belay below a large dirty ledge. (60 feet)

p3- Continue up and traverse left to gain a good, short splitter, climb this to its end keeping right of a large tree and head towards another short and slightly hidden crack. Climb this crack, get onto a face and hit another obvious crack. Run this up and left until coming just short of the top. Finish left at a tree and horizontal crack system. build belay. (80 feet)

Descent- From the final belay, scramble left of the belay and around the corner of the face to an obvious path that reaches the summit. Walk off to the West on a heavily traveled trail towards the shale layer. Scramble down the final gully ending at the geological sign parking lot.

Protection [Edit]

A single rack up to a 3 inches, medium stoppers, and a large selection of runners. Double cams in 1" and 2" would be nice, but not necessary if comfortable at the grade. Build your own belays.

Location [Edit]

The First East Face is the second, taller, and slightly cleaner face immediately up from and east of the Outside Corner.

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8 PG13
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8 PG13
The first pitch is awkward, loose and doesn't take pro well. The second pitch improves a bit and the third pitch gets to the good stuff. Final pitch felt like it had a move or two that was harder than 5.7. Bring a large selection of runners and a full set of doubles. No bolted belays or slings. Watch out for loose rock, there's some big pieces waiting to drop. Aug 29, 2014

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